Thursday, January 26, 2012

Review: *** $$ Domaine de Triennes St Auguste, Var, Provence, France, 2005

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By way of background, opening thoughts: The Var region of Provence, France, is a lesser-known high-altitude wine-growing region.  Today we are sampling a unique blend from the region, which has seen seven years of aging from vintage date.

Original tasting and review : This is Domaine de Triennes St Auguste, Var, Provence, France, 2005, finished at 13.5% alcohol.  It is a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

In the glass: Deep burgundy, opaque in the middle, still sporting a purple rim.  That's quite surprising at this age!

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft and very gently red berry aromas and hints of spice.  From the aroma, seems like this will be subtle and balanced.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact soft, bright and full, well-balanced with subtle sweetness and Indian spices lightening a solid underlying structure.  This has held up extraordinarily well to the seven years of aging.

In summary: Overall, solid, balanced red rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale

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Updated Review: ***+ $ Earthworks Shiraz Barossa Valley 2006, Australia - BEST VALUE



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 By way of background: Earthworks Shiraz Barossa Valley, 2006, is from the highly-regarded Barossa Valley region of Australia, definitely known and respected for its old-vine shiraz.

Earthworks wine is essentially a negotiant wine, meaning the grapes are collected from farms around the region. Alcohol level is 14.5%, consistent with shiraz from this area.

Original review, May, 2009:

In the glass, Earthworks shows as a deep, dusty, brick-hued red, no hints of purple on this three-year-old specimen.

On the nose: Swirling hurls some of the candy apple aromas into the air. On closer attention, you can pick up some of those deep, ripe plum/fruit aromas along with hints of the inside of a new balloon - almost an overripe funk. That will probably blow off with a short decant.

On the palate, Earthworks touches the middle of your mouth with full fruit, sparkling a bit of spice to the sides. Acids tickle your cheeks, and a nice tannin flush provides for a reasonably-lengthy, slightly sweet finish. Solid stuff. Not so overwhelming that it couldn't accompany a meal. Three stars, making it an outstanding value.

Ready to drink now, but a couple more years in bottle won't do any harm.

Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate gave this 90 points, and wrote, "The 2006 Shiraz saw an identical regimen of tank and barrel. Purple-colored, it exhibits aromas of smoke, sausage, bacon, and blueberry which jumps from the glass. Medium-bodied, ripe, and sweet with no hard edges, this superb value can be enjoyed over the next 4-6 years."
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Updated review, over two and a half years later,  January, 2012:  Consistent color.  The helium aromas are gone from this six-year-old bottle, but the candy apple deep fruit remains.  Consistent notes on the palate, blending deep fruit with a bright acid coating.  Gets a plus for balance and longevity and remains a best value.

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Sunday, January 22, 2012

Updated Review: *** $ Haddon Cellars Merlot, 2002, CA - BEST VALUE

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By way of background: Haddon Cellars Merlot, 2002, from unspecified vineyard regions of California was offered as part of the Wine Insiders series. It is finished at 12% alcohol, quite light by U.S. standards.

Original Review February 2007: Medium brick, ruby color. Slightly flat cherry cola aroma. More pleasant flavors than suggested by the nose -- deep berries, round, a touch of acids and tannins. Finishes quick with a hint of plum and blueberry. Easy to move on to something else...

Updated Review July 2007: Consistent notes. Not improved with additional age. Slightly more acidic and tannic than earlier. Moving from original **+ to **.
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Updated Review two and a half years later, December, 2009...

In the glass: This is showing medium dark brick red, not really opaque anywhere.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, aromas lean towards cherry vinegar. Not appealing.

On the palate: A first note of hyper-ripe sweet black raspberries steeped in oak touches your mid-palate, quite a pleasant surprise after the aroma. The flavors move to your cheeks with no noticeable added notes of tannin or acid.

And the finish: Rests in your upper palate for a few moments, bright and crisp, then ends with just a touch of sugar cloy.

In summary: Now seven years from the vintage date, this has become a generally pleasant experience - not great distinction nor complexity, but a satisfying mid-level table red wine. I don't believe I'd seek it out again, so it falls just short of three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. We'll go with two stars and a plus for impressive improvement over the years. Decent value.

After long decant, three days in partial bottle under vacuum... Aromas improved, now lightly sweet raspberry. Palate has held solid, now better knitted-together. Finish is nicer too, not sugary, but holds a little more acid "snap" in your cheeks. Moves to three stars with the vacuum decant, and now becomes a best value at its practically free price.
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Updated review, over two years later,  now a full decade from vintage date, January, 2012:  Still thin cherry on the nose.  Light and sweet raspberries remain on the palate.  Solid.  Following long decant, three full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Sweet cherry on the nose and sweeter raspberries on the palate.

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Updated Review: ***+ $ Kanonkop Kadette, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2008 - BEST VALUE

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By way of background:Kanonkop Kadette is a dry red wine from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa.  It is made from a blend of 45% pinotage, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and 9% cabernet franc, all finished at 14% alcohol for the 2008 vintage.

Original review, January, 2010:

In the glass: Kanonkop Kadette shows as bold purple in the glass, opaque to within one inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, the wine displays bold notes of smoky peat and deep black fruit.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is the smoked cherries that move up boldly into your nose, followed by a bright and acidic wash across your tongue.  It turns slightly slick as it moves.

And the finish: Settles into the back of your mouth with clean acids and a deep fruit residue.

In summary: Overall, just reaches three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale for its solid character and potential for a couple more years of aging.  Great value at its low-end price point.

Wine Enthusiast liked this a lot, awarding 91 points and reporting, "This blend of Pinotage, Cabernet, Merlot & Cabernet Franc is full-bodied & complex, with layered aromas of cherry, banana & warming spices, & smooth, elegant flavors of cedar, cherry, tobacco smoke & red berries. Velvety, soft tannins & a clean finish give it a classy touch. The wine can age, but drink now & you won't be disappointed."

Following a two-day decant via vacuum in partial bottle: the wine holds up very well, with the acids knitting evenly into the wine now.
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Updated review, two years later,  January, 2012:  Consistent color and aroma.  Black cherries and acids blend on the palate, forming a big and impressive impact.  Adds a plus for potent balance and remains a best value. Following long decant, three full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Held up quite well to the extra air, no notably changes elements.

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