Saturday, June 30, 2007

Rating: *** 1999 Bedell Cellars Cupola, North Fork, Long Island, NY


Review: Bedell Cellars is a North Fork, Long Island, vineyard and winery best known for its Bordeaux-style red blends. Frankly, when traveling in Long Island, I often would load up with a collection of local wines. Months later, back at home, I'd give myself the "what was I thinking" mental kick, wondering how I could have compared these wines favorably with the other wines in my cellar. Notably, Bedell would sometimes be safe from that lament, mostly because their slightly old-world style (to me) separated them from the pack.

The 1999 Cupola is a Bordeaux blend of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 15% cabernet franc, 14% merlot and 6% petit verdot.

The color is of brand new brick, which means the red is actually showing a little bit of age. Medium in overall tone, turning slightly orange to the rim. Aroma is of spicy, peppery cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc fruit, toned down with just a hint of clean-laundry. There is also an insistent broccoli-vegetable note.

The palate is actually quite round and balanced, bringing fruit plus wood (not necessarily oak) plus autumn leaves into view. Nice, balanced in its finish, though frankly somewhat truncated. This Long Island red held its age well.

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