Monday, July 2, 2007

Rating: *** 1999 Pindar Syrah, Long Island, NY

Review: I've been clearing the cellar of some slightly-aged Long Island reds that seem to have come of age. Here's another one.

Pindar is Long Island's largest vineyard and made Long Island's first commercial syrah. This vintage generated only 100 cases of syrah wine, so you're unlikely to bump into the 1999 without some hard work.

This syrah shows as deep cherry in the glass, turning orange-brown just at the rim. The aroma pushes a high-pitched, almost squealing aroma of burnt fruit and slightly stale, hot carmel. As you can imagine, this gives me a bit of trepidation about sipping. But, hey, what I will do in the name of science...

Burnt fruit stays consistent on the palate. After the first sip, which was hot and tough and essentially reset my palate, later sips seemed cleaner, rounder and actually fairly complex and long-lived in finish. Carmel opens up through middle fruit and leads the lingering finish.

Not an easy wine. But intriguing, so I'd come back to it again. So that's three stars.

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