Saturday, April 21, 2012

Updated Review: **+ $ Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken, 2008, Rheinhessen, Germany

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By way of background: What a challenging wine the German riesling is to get a handle on... start with the names alone: here we have the Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken from Rheinhessen, Germany. Aw, c'mon, what's so difficult in all that?!

Well, let's start with the most notable clues: first you know it is a "Riesling". "Trocken" tells you the wine is dry; and "Kabinett" says it is made from just-ripened grapes, usually in a lighter style. So here you have it: a light, dry riesling. Everything else provides more particulars about the region, vineyard and winemaker.

In this case, the Fritz Windisch Gau-Biscofsheimer Kellersberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken is a quite-affordable, widely-available style of dry riesling. We are trying a newly-released young bottling.

Original review, June, 2009:  In the glass, it shows almost transparent, with just a vanilla cast. Served just cooler than room temperature, aromas show mild overgrown hay, with just a touch of funk, like the hay was cut a day or two ago. Acidic, citrus overtones are present too.

On the palate, you encounter a fully up-front experience, lemon and acid and very light sugar in the front of your mouth. The acids don't really clench your jaws, and the fruit doesn't really fill your palate. A lightly sweet, fairly dilute, lemonade-style riesling. Finish is fast, though clean.

Interesting experience, so two stars - not one I'd especially seek to repeat, so we can't give it a third star.
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Updated review, almost three years later, April, 2012:    Deep vanilla color with some light yellow highlights.  Soft, sleek, hay-filled nose, quite consistent with three years ago.  Soft, clean and sweet touch on the palate, with bone-dry citrus taking over from the sweet start.   A plus gets added to the second star, because there is a nice balance going on here between crisp, tart, citrus and hints of sweet. 

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