Friday, November 11, 2011

Review: *** $ Georges Duboeuf Cru Du Beaujolais Morgon, France, 2005 (BEST VALUE)

Find prices and retail availability for Morgon beaujolais.

Opening thoughts: This is a "cru" beaujolais from the Beaujolais region of France, designed for medium-term aging - not to be confused with "beaujolais nouveau", designed for immediate drinking.  Beaujolais wines are made from the gamay grape.

By way of background: The Georges Duboeuf Cru Du Beaujolais Morgon, France, 2005, is finished at 13.% alcohol. It is at the left in the collection of cru beaujolais' pictured above.

Original tasting and review, September, 2010:

In the glass: Morgon Beaujolais shows medium red, with hints of both brick and purple.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this cru beaujolais shows deep earthy and fruity notes, kind of like what you might expect if you were sniffing inside the bark of a cherry tree.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a modest, lightly earthy, mid-weight, dry fruit tone, suggestive of cherries, but cherries with all the sugar drawn out.  Think unsweetened cherry dust.  Light tannins back this, creating a lasting grit against the sides of your cheeks.  That makes for a long-lasting finish, quite clean.

In summary: Overall, carries a nice tone and complexity, but seems to just miss because of insufficient fruit or fragrance on the palate.  Should work well with food, though I reviewed it alone. Rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, but a plus because I sincerely believe it has potential that I could not extract in this tasting - perhaps I waited too long, as this is almost five years since vintage date.  I don't believe this wants more age, but I am curious what a bit more air time will do with a decant.  Because of its remarkably low price, this is a good value, at 2+ stars.

If you like beaujolais nouveau, I highly recommend you explore cru beaujolais such as Morgon as better-value alternatives at around the same price.

Following long decant, one full day, kept cool in partially-filled bottle:   Less earthy on the nose, but a little more fruit comes through on the palate, still surrounded with a dusty grit.  Same score, but I like this better with the extra air time.

Robert Parker awarded 91 points and said, "The 2005 Morgon bursts forth with massive doses of waxy black fruits. Broad, suave, and satin-textured, this is a fleshy, concentrated wine. Its powerful core of fruit, principally dark cherries and blackberries, lingers in its long finish. Projected maturity: now-2013."

Updated review, over a year later,  November, 2011: The color is similarly medium, but the highlights are more of brick now.  On the nose, I get more of a fleshy fruit now, like sniffing wine from the inside of a steam cleaned car tire.  There are tiny spits of sugar with the cherry dust on the mature palate now.  Comes precariously close to "best value" status at three stars, because of its uniqueness and complexity.  However, it is simply not drawing me back to another bottle, so it falls short. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Sweet raspberry nose now.  More "raspberry dust" than "cherry dust" on the palate with the extra air time.  And even longer decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle for two more days, three days total: The raspberry palate has opened out nicely now, blending mature fruit with underlying brightness.  Just touches three stars now and becomes a best value. 

Find prices and retail availability for Morgon beaujolais.

No comments:

Post a Comment