Sunday, February 7, 2010

*** $$$$$ Chateau Troplong Mondot, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Chateau Troplong Mondot, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, is a Bordeaux red blend of 90% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon. The 2007 vintage has been aged between one and two years in 75% new oak barrels.

In the glass: Chateau Troplong Mondot shows as medium deep red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this red Bordeaux shows old world aromas with hints of menthol and cocoa.

On the palate: The palate is even, round and slightly sweet, bringing medium dark cherry, and a clean finish.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

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**+ $$$ Chateau La Tour Figeac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Chateau La Tour Figeac, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, is, for 2007, a blend of 65% merlot and 35% cabernet franc, aged for about a year and a half in about 2/3 new oak barrels.

In the glass: Chateau La Tour Figeac shows as medium deep red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Saint-Emilion Bordeaux shows a sweet, new world-influenced currant aroma.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is an odd one indeed - it is mostly like broccoli just about to go bad! There is a full fruit that follows this, then green pepper comes in again.

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its oddity.

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** $$ Mildiani Saperavi Red Wine, Telavi, Kakheti, Republic of Georgia - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Mildiani Saperavi Red Wine, Telavi, Kakheti, Republic of Georgia, is made of the Saperavi grape, indigenous to the region.  The Kakheti region is at the far southeastern edge of the republic.  For the 2005 vintage, this is finished at 13% alcohol, and was made available as part of the Barclays Wine collection.

In the glass: Mildiani Saperavi shows as medium dark burgundy in the glass, opaque in the very middle.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this saperavi red wine shows a mild nose of shy red currants.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is an acid-driven, dry, smoky middle - almost like a char-broiled vinegar, though not that unpleasant.  The distinctive smoke and pepper comes across your mouth, traveling on the acids.  

And the wrap-up: The finish lodges in the back of your mouth and cheeks, clean, dark tangy with no sweetness whatsoever.

In summary: Overall, a distinctive, though fairly astringent experience.  Rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

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Following a three-day decant under vacuum in a partially-filled bottle:  still essentially a charcoal-broiled red currants and red pepper experience.  Distinctive, but not really becoming. 

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***+ $$$$ Chateau La Gaffeliere, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Chateau La Gaffeliere, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, is a classic blend of 80% merlot and 20% cabernet franc, aged 12 months in new oak barrels for the 2007 vintage.

In the glass: Chateau La Gaffeliere shows as medium red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Bordeaux blend displays a sweet, almost new world, blackberry aroma.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is even and bold, followed by an upper palate hit of purple lollipop.

And the wrap-up: The finish is solid tannins and purple fruit.

In summary: Overall, bold experience, seemingly as much in the new world as old world category. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for future promise.

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*** $$$$ Chateau Grand Mayne, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Chateau Grand Mayne, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, is a mix of 80% merlot, 15% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon for 2007, aged about a year and a half in 75% new oak barrels.

In the glass: Chateau Grand Mayne shows as medium-deep red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this is definitely old world, showing more forest than fruit.

On the palate: The palate is a slightly funky, slightly cheese-infused fruit.

And the wrap-up: The finish is even and full.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. I'd try it again.

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***+ $$$$ Clos Fourtet, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Clos Fourtet, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, is a mostly-merlot blend, at 85%, supplemented by 10% cabernet sauvignon and 5% cabernet franc for 2007.  This is aged 75% in new oak barrels.

In the glass: Clos Fourtet shows as medium red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this is definitely old world... like you just took off the old world shoes and sniffed!

On the palate: The palate shows sweet plums plus intense forest floor.

And the wrap-up: The finish turns tannic as it moves into your cheeks.

In summary: Overall, a solid experience, rating three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for power and potential.

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** $$$$$ Chateau Figeac Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Chateau Figeac Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, is an almost equal combination of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot, an unusual combination indeed for the area - given the high proportion of cabernet sauvignon. The 2007 vintage is finished 100% in new oak barrels.

In the glass: Chateau Figeac shows as medium red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Bordeaux shows a classic old world nose.

On the palate: There is an even mid palate, with a lightly sour cherry finish.

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

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*** $$$ Chateau Dassault, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France - Wine Tasting & Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Chateau Dassault, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru, Bordeaux, France, is a blend of 70% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon for the 2007 vintage, finished nearly entirely in new oak barrels.

In the glass: Chateau Dassault shows as medium red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Saint-Emilion Bordeaux shows a sweet, approachable, old world nose.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a sweet cherry essence moving across your tongue.

And the wrap-up: The finish resolves to sweet red cherry.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for friendly!

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Best wines for the Super Bowl

To me, the best Super Bowl wines are any with which I could see spending a cold, leisurely Sunday afternoon - so usually, husky, bold reds; but perhaps a sparkler or tawny port too.  Here are a few choices, along with links to prices and retailers, and Spirit of Wine ratings in one-to-five stars:


***** Mollydooker The Boxer Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia 
***** Oliverhill Jimmy Section Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia
***** Merriam Jones Vineyard Cabernet Franc - Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma CA
***** Earthquake Petite Syrah, CA
****+ Nederburg Pinotage 
****  Starry Night Zinfandel
****  Cat Amongst the Pigeons 
****  Braida Moscato d'Asti 

Wednesday, February 3, 2010

Review and Rating: **+ $$ Chateau Grand Village Bordeaux Superieur 2001, France

 Find Bordeaux blends at WineZap.


 Original Review, July, 2008: The Chateau Grand Village Bordeaux Superieur, 2001, is is part of the reasonably well-regarded 2001 vintage in Bordeaux.

In the glass, it shows an even, deep mahogany, with slight bricking at the rim. The aromas are quite bold, pushing from the glass. On closer exam, there is an alcoholic push behind fairly ripe, deep fruit, with little hints of broccoli and sweet oak dust.

On the palate, a dry, flat middle comes first to notice, seemingly not bringing much fruit or tannin. Closer attention picks up elements of dry bramble. Tannins do in fact back up the noticeable acids, needing just some interesting fruit to conclude the balance. Can't say that age will cut the leanness much. So two stars out of five.

You can see that the newer 2005 vintage got decent, though not blockbuster, reviews over on CellarTracker.

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Updated Review, a year and a half later, January, 2010, now nine years from vintage date:  color and nose are almost unchanged, less oak dust now.  But the broccoli is still present.  Definitely old world.

Now the palate is a bit more intriguing.  Thin overall, but some fruit poking through the cold, bare bramble bushes.  Tannins now clench your cheeks for the finish.  I need to add a plus because this thing hasn't hit old age yet - fairly remarkable for a value-priced Bordeaux.

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Following four-day decant under vacuum in partially-opened bottle:  unchanged in aroma and palate, except perhaps a bit less bite on the tannins.  This is one grizzled wine - holds its ground no matter what!

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Tuesday, February 2, 2010

**** $ Cerejeiras Tinto (Red Wine), 2007, Vinho Regional Estremadura, Portugal - Review and Rating

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Original Review, July, 2009: Cerejeiras is Portuguese dry red wine hailing from the Estremadura region. It comprises a blend of three mostly locally-known grapes: castelao, aragonez and tinta miuda. It comes in at a modest 12.5 percent alcohol, and we are tasting the Cerejeiras while it is still quite young.


In the glass, it is a medium bold red, suggesting red berries. Aromas are interesting indeed - mostly old-world and funky, rather than the sweet, plummy and clean that I expected. There is an old mustiness right up front in the nose - almost makes you reach for the anti-allergy tablets! It's wrapped in rich, old fruit though. The question is, how can a one year old wine act so mature?

Well, let's see by the palate if this is an infant or an octagenerian... On the palate, you notice a round, mature plummy fruitiness mingled with the must right in the middle of your upper palate. It glides smoothly along the tongue, reaching with the gentlest of tannins along the sides of your mouth into your cheeks. The finish is long, smooth and sweet. Cerejeiras is an easy-going infant masquerading as a senior citizen! Outstanding, intense, balanced, layered, enjoyable experience. Four stars on the Spirit of Wine scale. This is a crazy best value at its very modest price.

Because of the strong attitude of Cerejeiras in the glass, it may be easier to use as a sipping wine than with food. For food, pasta dishes may be among your best bets.

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Updated review, approx. six months later, February, 2010:  Awesome, funky, old world nose is still there.  Smooth and sandy, old world funk and complexity plus new world fruit, slick and mineral and still a hint of acidity.  Wow. This hits on all cylinders.  There is a good chance that this bottle is fully infected by brett (Brettanomyces), which may be responsible for the unique, old world character.  We'll need to try other bottles to know for sure.  An earlier sample of Cerejeiras seemed to show an entirely different (and less intriguing) character overall. 

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M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon Villages, Languedoc, France - Wine Tasting and Review

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background:M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut, Cotes du Roussillon Villages is from the Languedoc region of France, and consists of a blend of grenache, syrah and carignan. The 2008 vintage is finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Les Vignes de Bila Haut shows as deep burgundy in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a long decant and swirled vigorously, this Cotes du Roussillon Villages brings rich aromas of deep plums and bright wood shavings.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a dry, fruited woodiness that rushes to the roof of your mouth.  A full acid wash brings some dry red cherry back across your tongue to your teeth.

And the finish: Red currant and pomegranate curl up and rest for a long time in your cheeks.  Tangy!

In summary: Overall, an interesting, bright red, acid-driven, and reasonably complex experience.

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Monday, February 1, 2010

Review and Rating: **** $$ Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz, 2005, Limestone Coast, Australia

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Original Review, May, 2008: Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz, 2005, hails from the Limestone Coast/Padthaway region of southeastern Australia. In the glass, it is deep, dark magenta/black, almost opaque. Aromas are powerful, deep and plumy.

On the palate, Jip Jip Rocks is silky and svelte, tracing ripe blackberry currents down your cheeks, bringing rivulets of long-lasting flavors to your tongue. Sweet acid balances the thick fruit, lending lightness to the powerful potion. Tannins are not as noticeable. It finishes long. Four stars out of five. Phenomenal value at a modest price. I want to lay a couple bottles of this down to explore in a few years.

Robert Parker of the Wine Advocate awarded 91 points, writing, "Jip Jip Rocks 2005 Shiraz Limestone Coast exhibits a deep ruby/purple color as well as attractive blueberry, black raspberry, and creosote characteristics, wonderful intensity, supple tannin, and a long finish."

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After a full day's decanting: Aromas muted. Palate remains little changed from initial pour.

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Updated review, almost two years later, February, 2010, now five years from vintage date:  still awesome, round, full, lush.  Still four stars.  Great value.

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** $$ Chateau Cote Montpezat, 2000, Cotes de Castillon, France - Wine Review and Rating


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Original Review, April, 2009: Chateau Cote Montpezat 2000 is from Cotes de Castillon, an area of Bordeaux, France, that tends to fall a bit below the radar screen. Sometimes - though not always - good values can be found in this region. Let's see how this one fares.

In the glass, Chateau Cote Montpezat is deep, dusty red, opaque in the middle, brick at the edges. Not surprising, since it already wearing 9 years of age. Right from the bottle, upon swirling, the nose is gamey and chewy, with a vegetable medley mixed in - sort of a beefy stew. On the palate, the vegetables come through first - a fairly flat mid-palate bringing broccoli and cauliflower, with little hints of fruit around the edges. Modest finish shows a touch of acid and tannin.

This may mold out with a bit of decant time, but right now I can only award two stars out of five. I would not return to it, and realize I own a few bottles too many already.

Gary Vaynerchuk awarded 91-92 points, saying he and his colleague Ian Dorin "stumbled on a wine that rocked our socks, came from one of the great vintages of all time, had some age to it so it drank like silk." He also said, "I was blown away by the complexities and this wine reminds me of most $30-$50 wines from the vintage!" Hmmm, not quite my take.

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Updated Review, almost two years later, February, 2010, now 10 years from vintage date: ehh, no added complexity, still like sipping the dew off a wintering vine branch.  Still two stars.


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*** $ Roo Estates Merlot, 2006, South Eastern Australia - Review and Rating

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 Original Review, April, 2009: Roo Estates Merlot is another in the line of Roo value wines sourced from south eastern Australia. Merlot, a generally softer grape than cabernet and less sparky and aromatic than shiraz, has not made much of a name in the Australian region. Let's see what this value-priced sample brings...

In the glass, Roo Merlot is medium dusty dark red. The aroma is bright, perky and fruity. On the palate, you get more perkiness than other elements, almost a dry red currant - full of acids with a touch of dark oak. It definitely leaves me wanting. Indistinctive tannins, fruit or finish. Not only would I not come back to this, I'm not sure I would finish the first bottle. Some bargains are not really bargains even when the price is great. One star with a plus because it wasn't the worst bottle of wine I didn't want to finish.

But if you have the choice, leave this one behind.

Quick note: This picked up some fruit and roundness after a long decant. More enjoyable, not distinctive. Moves to two stars. I still wouldn't pursue, but wouldn't actively avoid now either.

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Updated review, almost two years later, February, 2010, now four years from vintage date:  Aroma still muted.  But on the palate, round, full, bold fruit, slight plum, but added very ripe blackberry.  Now a star is added to make this three stars. Becomes a best value.  Probably at its peak drinking time.

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Review and Rating: ***+ $$ Cigale Shiraz, 2004, Barossa Valley, Australia


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Original Review, May, 2008: The Cigale Shiraz 2004 is rumored to be the shiraz component of the Parker 94-point, $50 Spinifex Shiraz/Viognier, though available at a much lower price point.

In the glass, it is a deep berry, muddy red. Aromas are quite berry-esque as well, reminiscent of creamy raspberries.


On the palate, the sensation is first of a fruity, full, sweet, berry-laden middle, moving to the sides of your mouth with an enveloping, thick, sweet-berry coating. Light tannins on the modest finish. This is almost reminiscent of California zin-based meritages, with spicy, sweet, raspberry
components.

Three stars out of five. 

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Updated Review, a year and a half later, February, 2010, now six years from vintage date:  still a new world, berry-based experience, but now a distinct tobacco element comes in on the palate, bringing a distinctive grown-up element.  Adds a plus to the three stars.

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