Friday, August 31, 2012

Updated Review: ***+ $$ Volver Tempranillo, Las Mesas, La Mancha, Spain, 2007 = GOOD VALUE

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Spain is world "headquarters" for the tempranillo grape.  This version hails from the La Mancha area of Spain, and has had a modest four years of bottle age at the time of first tasting.

Original tasting and review, June, 2011: This is Volver Tempranillo, Las Mesas, La Mancha, Spain, 2007, finished at 14.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Volver shows as deep opaque burgundy, transparent only the first quarter inch or so from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft, deep and perfumed plums with some candy apple.  From the aroma, seems like this will be yielding and engaging.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact ripe, still-tannic plums on  the first sip.  That resolves into blackberry and some light oak.  Bold tannins, with light acids, carry the sip into a lengthy, mocha-infused finish.

In summary: Overall, just catches three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.  It wants food or even more age to cut the fresh, lively tannins.

Following long decant, five hours at room temperature in flat-bottomed decanter:  Shy, balanced, sweet nose.  Brighter plums and blackberry make up the palate, followed by tannins that bring a slight charcoal-like darkness.  Held up easily to the air. 
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Updated review, over a year later, August, 2012:  Still black magenta in the glass.   Deep silky fruit on the nose, with light hints of menthol.  Soft, but no age apparent.  Brightly perfumed, thick black fruit on the palate.  Quite solid and compelling.  The bold tannins have obviously matured just far enough to deliver layering into the flavors now.  Just the right time for drinking, now five years from vintage date.  Gains a plus on the three stars, becoming a good value. 

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