Rating: **** $$$ Sterling Vineyards SVR Reserve Red Wine, Napa, CA, 2007 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Sterling Vineyards SVR Reserve Red Wine, Napa, CA, 2007, a blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 27% merlot and 7% cabernet franc, finished at 14.9% alcohol.

In the glass: Sterling SVR Red is deep burgundy, almost opaque starting about an inch in from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Bordeaux-style blend from Napa offers spicy, rich and dark fruit with oak overtones. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are balanced, full, mid-red fruit right in the center of your palate, with just gentle supporting layers of acids and tannins.  Flavors are of fully ripe red cherries.  The mid-palate is full and sweet, and it tapers to a gentle close, with nice drying tannins coming in at the very end.  Should show productive, gentle aging in cellar or decanter. 

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a definite plus for concentration and promise.

Following two-hour decant, the palate knitted together further, leaving silty, chalky cherry tannins nicely wrapping the experience, and bringing this to a full four stars.  Following longer decant, one day kept cool in a partially filled bottle:  The nose has become brighter and redder, with a touch of spice.  The palate remains sleek and smooth with sweet red fruit and flecks of charcoal, nicely balanced still. 


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Rating: ***** $$$$ Modus Operandi Cellars Vicarious Red Wine, California, 2008 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Modus Operandi Cellars Vicarious Red Wine, California, 2008, finished at 15.% alcohol, a blend of 35% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 20% syrah and 20% petite sirah from various vineyards in Napa Valley and the Sierra foothills of California.  The winemaker Jason Moore held the wine for 22 months in 65% new French oak barrels. 

In the glass: Vicarious Red is dark purple/magenta, muddy opaque starting only a quarter inch from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this red blend shows a funky, almost over-ripe nose even in this young bottle, blending mashed ripe plums with tomato sauce in a unique and spicy melange.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a concentrated, slick, sexy robe of deep, viscious fruit - blueberries mostly - that trickle along your mouth and cheeks ever-so-slowly, lodging in your cheeks with just enough tannins and acids to hold the fruit for almost a minute after you thought you finished your sip.  Hints of pipe tobacco come into the aromas as the sip slowly fades away.  None of the high, 15% alcohol comes across as heat in the fully-balanced palate.

In summary: Overall, a luxury experience with no rough edges that rates a full five stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.  Not formally considered a best value because of its premium price, but definitely a keeper. Only 12 barrels produced, so not likely to be found widely available.

Following longer decant, one day kept cool in a partially filled bottle:   The funkiness is gone in the still-unusual melange of aromas on the nose.  The blueberries are brighter red now on the palate, and the tobacco turns just a little bit burnt.  Remains concentrated, full, lush and unique. 

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Rating: *** $$ Borsao Crianza Seleccion, Borja, Spain, 2006 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Borsao Crianza Seleccion, Borja, Spain, 2006, finished at 14.5% alcohol, a blend of 50% grenache, 25% tempranillo and 25% cabernet sauvignon, aged for 10 months in oak, then in bottle.

In the glass: Deep magenta throughout.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Spanish Crianza shows a full and thick nose of deep fruit and oak, with deep menthol overtones reminiscent of Aussie shiraz. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are surprisingly bright red berry fruit at first, settling to a more spicy, charcoal overtone on your tongue as the flash of red fruit fades.  This travels a long distance from the deep, thick nose to the bright, red palate.  Interesting. 

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a rather large plus because of the compelling nose, and the promise that the palate will settle in more with time or decanting.

Following long decant, one day kept cool in a partially filled bottle:  The nose has toned down, becoming more sandy and fruity.  The palate retains its red, spicy character, but more layered now, improving just enough to touch three stars with the long decant.

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Rating: ** Dona Javiera Amapola Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2008 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Dona Javiera Amapola Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2008.

In the glass: Deep burgundy, opaque in the middle of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Chilean cabernet shows sweet fruits with a freshness reminiscent of clean laundry and fresh rains.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are gritty and fruity hints of dark fruit. 

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Rating: **** Dario Crianza, Montsant, Spain, 2007 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Dario Crianza, Montsant, Spain, 2007, made of a blend of low-yielding garnacha, carinena and syrah grapes.

In the glass: Deep burgundy, opaque to within a half inch of the side of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Crianza showed an old world nose of funky, heady juice. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are full of oak and depth - inky, rustic with an exceptionally long finish.

In summary: Overall, awesome old world experience, rating four full stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Rating: ** Vina Delia Malbec, Argentina, 2009 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Vina Delia Malbec, Argentina, 2009, made by New Zealand winemaker Duncan Killiner.

In the glass: Deep magenta.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Argentinian malbec comes across as rich and dark plumy. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are tangy dark fruit with light tannings and bolder acids.

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Rating: ***+ Vinestral Rioja Blanco, Spain, 2009 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Vinestral Rioja Blanco, Spain, 2009, an unoaked white wine made entirely from the viura grape.

In the glass: Clear with a hint of yellow.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this shows intriguing sweet white flowers.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are flowers, perfumed fruit, with a sweet, light, mineral tone. 

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its fresh attitude.

Rating: ***+ Domaine de la Cessane Marsanne/Viognier, France, 2009 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Domaine de la Cessane Marsanne/Viognier, France, 2009.

In the glass: Light golden.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this white blend shows a sandiness and gentle perfumed nature.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are sleek mineral and fragrant earthy fruit.

In summary: Overall, compelling but gentle. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for sophistication. 

Rating: ** $$ Mountain View Chardonnay, Monterey, California, 2008 - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Mountain View Chardonnay, Monterey, California, 2008.

In the glass: Light lemon yellow

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Cali Chard displays lemon and apple up front.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are bright, acid-toned, dry melon, with hints of mineral. 

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Rating: **+ $$$ Champagne Lucas Carton Brut, France, non-vintage - Wine Review

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Champagne Lucas Carton Brut, France, non-vintage.

In the glass: Mid light golden in color.

On the nose: Poured cool, this champagne offered fresh dry tropical fruits on the nose.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are more apple than yeast, more smooth than acid.

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its easy-going nature.

**+ $ Delatour Cuvee Premier Pinot Noir, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Languedoc, France, 2007 - Wine Tasting & Review (GOOD VALUE)

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Original Tasting and Review, opening thoughts: This is a bargain-priced pinot noir from the Vin de Pays d'Oc region of France.  Bargain-priced pinot noirs are always a bit of a risk, right?  So, here I am, taking one for the team!  Let's see what we've got...

By way of background: This is Delatour Pinot Noir, 2007, finished at 12.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Delatour is pale ruby red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, this pinot noir sports a fruity, fresh strawberry nose, quite bold and friendly. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are lightly-toned strawberries, almost rose in style, sitting clean in the mid-palate with apparent acids.  Cleanliness is the overwhelming attribute here - think white laundered linens.  Refreshing in its brightness. 

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for clean class.  Good value at exceptional price.

Following long decant, kept cool a full week under vacuum in a partially filled bottle:  Trades some of its brightness on the nose and palate for a slightly more mature mellowness and muskiness.  Still a solid value.  

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Coming up in NYC: First Annual Soirée des Grands Crus

Consider joining a group of new generation owners of Bordeaux chateaux in New York City for the First Annual Soirée des Grands Crus, to be held on Thursday evening, January 27, 2011. The evening will feature tastings of 29 wines and offer wine enthusiasts a rare opportunity to connect with 17 proprietors representing 23 illustrious Bordeaux estates.

The event will showcase wines from both the Left Bank (Pessac-Léognan, Margaux, Saint-Éstèphe, and Saint-Julien) and the Right Bank (Saint-Émilion and Pomerol) of the Garonne River. Guests will taste the châteaux’ most recently released vintages and will be able to place orders directly with the châteaux for purchase via Le Du’s Wines in the West Village.

Châteaux owners scheduled to participate include Basile Tesseron of Château Lafon-Rochet (Saint-Éstèphe Grand Cru Classe); Stephen Carrier of Château de Fieuzal (Pessac Léognan); Jean-Jacques Bonnie of Château Malartic Lagravière (Grand Cru Classé de Graves); Emilie Gervoson of Château Larrivet Haut-Brion (Pessac Léognan); Jean-Michel LaPorte of Château La Conseillante (Pomerol); Ronan Laborde of Château Clinet (Pomerol); Mathieu Cuvelier of Château Clos Fourtet (Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé); Laurence Brun of Château Dassault (Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé); and Jean- Antoine Nony of Château Grand Mayne (Saint-Émilion Grand Cru Classé.

The evening will feature “The Breitling Grand Cru Challenge,” a blind tasting activity for attendees hosted by Jean-Luc Le Du of Le Du’s Wines and wine expert George Sape. The guest who can identify the selected vintages will win the grand prize of a Breiting Chronomat B01 watch (suggested retail value of $7690). Other prizes include some notable bottles of Bordeaux, including several magnums and double magnums.

For more info and to buy tickets, visit: www.lasoireedesgrandscrus.com.  Tickets: General Admission (7:30-11p.m.) $185;| Early Access (limited availability, 6-11p.m.): $ 250.  The event will be held at 82 Mercer St., NYC.

Rating: ***+ $ (Practically Free) Nostalgia Chardonnay, Central Valley, Chile, 2008 - Wine Review (BEST VALUE)

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Initial review, by way of background: This is another in a short series of "practically free" wines, called Nostalgia Chardonnay, Central Valley, Chile, 2008, finished at 12.% alcohol.  I have a hunch that Brotherhood is the actual parent winery, but the label coyly refers to Vinecrest Co., in Washingtonville NY.  Washingtonville happens to be the town in which Brotherhood Winery is based. 

In the glass: Nostalgia shows as appropriately off-white, with a hint of creamy yellow.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, this Chilean chardonnay brings sweet, ripe - almost overripe - pear and tropical fruit mix to the nose.  It is a vigorous nose, with a butterscotch-like undertone in feel, not flavor.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are bigness, sweetness, coconut-like roundness, with some light acids lifting the generally thick and rich palate.  The finish lingers in your cheeks with the acids, but does take on a touch of alcohol at the end - almost sake-like.

In summary: Overall, this one is for fans of thick chardonnay fruit.  It rates an impressive three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, but don't expect it to carry you away with challenge, contemplation or complexity.  You'll get an excellent, tasty - and cheap - sip.  Great value for its crazy low price.

Following long decant, over a week kept cool under vacuum in a partially filled bottle:  Both the nose and the palate are extremely consist with their pre-decant counterparts.  If anything, the palate gets just a bit rounder and richer, and Nostalgia gets a plus added for this supreme level of pleasantness.

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Rating: *** $ (Practically Free) Five Oaks Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, California, NV - Wine Review (BEST VALUE)

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Five Oaks Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon, California, non-vintage, finished at 12.% alcohol.  It is "practically free", because you could almost buy three of these and still be within our definition of a "one $" value-priced wine.  Because of that, I'll also call this a "take one for the team" experience. 

In the glass: Five Oaks cab is appropriately shy of color, bright ruby, like a light pinot noir. 

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, this ultra-bargain Cali cab shows a fruity nose: light cherries and berries with a slight grape-candy note.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a richer, rounder, lusher mouthfeel than I ever would have expected from the color or aroma.  Think of a clean, sweet, mineral glaze with blackberry drizzled on it for a hint of flavor.  The finish brings a slight note of sweet strawberries and raspberries.  

In summary: Overall, this rates a surprising three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.  It offers no challenge, layers or complexity - only pleasure.  And though I wouldn't come rushing back to it, I would come back to it, both surprising and delighting me.  For practically the price of a "Three Buck Chuck", this is kinda hard to beat as a entry-level best value.

Following long decant, a week kept cool under vacuum in partially-filled bottle:  Even more grape juice on the nose.  Now the palate has a candy fruit style too, with a bit of sparkle.

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