Sunday, February 6, 2011

*** Cameron Hughes Lot 101 Russian River Valley Chardonnay, 2007, Sonoma County, CA


Original Review, February, 2009: Cameron Hughes is a line of limited edition wines that I've reviewed and described before. This sample is a newly-bottled 2007 chardonnay, hailing from the well-reputed Russian River Valley area of Sonoma, CA.

In the glass, Cameron Hughes Lot 101 shows as transparent, with a medium-yellow cast. Its aromas are bold, and punch from the glass, bringing sinewy fresh grass and peaches. Very crisp in character.

On the palate, a more subdued mineral character emerges, bringing touches of slate to the equation. Finishes with a slick lemon sprinkle on the slate-rock base. Quite evocative. I would definitely seek out CH Lot 101 again, so three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale. This may attain additional, though subtle, complexity with a bit more time in bottle.
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Updated Review, two years later, February, 2011:  The color has deepened, showing more butterscotch.   Less crisp on the nose, but with bold, deep character now.  Pears in juice.  Creamy slate coming in on the palate. 

Wine sample provided by Cameron Hughes Wine. Cameron Hughes wine lots may be found here.

Rating: **+ $ i Stefanini Il Selese Soave, 2008, Veneto, Italy - Wine Review and Rating

By way of background: The i Stefanini Il Selese Soave hails from northeast Italy, area known for the "Soave" wine, made principally from the garganega grape. Il Selese is finished at 12.5% alcohol.

Original Review, October, 2009:

In the glass: Il Selese Soave shows as light yellow in the glass, with golden honey highlights.

On the nose: Served just cooler than room temperature, this soave brings sweet, sharp, steely grass to the nose. Pretty insistent and bright. The polished metal sheen is quite apparent.

On the palate: First note on the palate, interestingly enough, is a super-clean, almost spring-water middle. There's a short quick note of sugar in there too. As you allow it to settle, very gentle sweet peach notes appear, almost as though you have steeped them in the cool spring water, then sprinkled just a drop or two of lemon into the mix.

And the finish: The flavors build and decline gently, staying light and sleek. The finish holds for a bit, then wraps up quite pure.

In summary: This is a gentle ride all the way. It is a bit too delicate throughout for me to become a raving fan. It falls just shy of three stars out of five on the Spirit of Wine scale, as I might come back to it if it had toned up just a bit of its muscle. So two stars with a plus for its compelling delicacy. At its price point, the two plus stars makes this a "good value".

Wine Spectator was pretty enthusiastic, awarding 90 points and reporting, "This has an intriguing nose, offering ripe peach, with hints of talc and broom bush. Full-bodied, with slightly bitter citrus and almond flavors carried by fresh acidity. The finish is long and intense. Drink now. 5,000 cases made."
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Updated Review, over a year later, January, 2011:  Color is consistent.  The nose is more sweet than sharp grass now.  On the palate, light butterscotch wafts over the light peach and citrus notes. 

Find Il Selese Soave at WineZap.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Wine Notes: Vina Tacama Terroix, Ica, Peru, 2007

Find prices and retail availability for wines and liquors available in the U.S. from Peru.

Initial review, by way of background: This is an unexpectedly interesting experience for me, a Peruvian red blend of malbec and tannat, called Vina Tacama Terroix, Ica, Peru, 2007, finished at 14.% alcohol.  This one is not generally available in the U.S.  Thanks Dave & Pierina!

In the glass: Medium red with ruby highlights.

On the nose: Poured at room temperature with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this red blend from Peru shows bold, new-wine scents of helium balloon (that will disperse with a little air), and, behind that, roasted and grilled red berries. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a uniquely peppery, round and dry mid-palate, light to the touch, but sleek and clean   Fruits are red berries and  currants.  The wine finishes with a light acidic top note, just right for pairing with meats or dishes with light tomato sauces.

In summary: Overall, a quite pleasant light- to mid-red experience from a wine region few of us have had the opportunity to experience.

Following long decant, several days kept cool in a partially filled bottle:   More oxidized now on the nose.  Interestingly, though, the palate actually thickens a bit, becoming husky and deep.

Friday, February 4, 2011

Rating: *** $ Casa Castillo Monastrell, 2007, Jumilla, Spain - Wine Review (BEST VALUE)

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By way of background:
Casa Castillo Monastrell, from the Jumilla area of southern Spain, is a pure varietal of the monastrell grape - also called mourvedre - which is finished at a solid 14% alcohol.


Original Review, November, 2009:

In the glass: Color is deep magenta, opaque to within a half-inch of the rim of the wine glass.

On the nose: Aroma is medium-powerful classic sweet and smoky helium balloon, suggesting bright red fruits.

On the palate: Casa Castillo comes on at first as a very strong and balanced showing, bringing sweet blueberry and ripe, sweet strawberry to your middle tongue. That is followed by a mild acid tang at the back of your throat, and a bigger, building set of sweet tannins swarming around the perimeter of your mouth.

And the finish: Finishes with a sweet red fruit and tannin crescendo, supplemented by a bit of black charcoal. As the finish fades, it brings just a touch of cloying sweetness.

In summary: Definitely an experience I would not refuse again, so a solid three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. Terrific value, as this bottle ran under $10 U.S.

Jay Miller of Wine Advocate definitely liked this too, awarding 90 points and saying, "The 2007 Monastrell is even better than the 2006 which received 88 points in Issue 175. The wine is estate grown and bottled from old vines and low yields. It was aged for six months in seasoned French and American oak barrels. Dark ruby-colored, it exhibits a nose of spice box, black cherry, and blueberry. This leads to a medium to full-bodied wine with layered fruit, savory flavors, enough structure to evolve for 1-2 years, and a pure close. Drink it over the next four years."

Josh Raynolds of International Wine Cellar was similarly enthusiastic, also awarding 90 points and writing, 'Inky purple. Deep, smoky cassis and blueberry aromas, with complicating notes of tobacco and musky herbs. Powerful dark berry flavors are youthfully chewy and tannic, with bright acidity adding snap. Finishes with strong grip and very good persistence. For this price, this is serious stuff."
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Updated Review, over a year later, January, 2011:  Color is still deep magenta.  Sweet alcoholic red fruits on the nose.  On the palate, still a pleasant mid-red blueberry and strawberry experience.  Not much touched by the year in bottle. 

Following long decant, almost a week kept cool in a partially filled bottle:  More muted nose with a touch of oxidation.  Muddled strawberries now take the lead on the nose, with blueberries in reserve.

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Thursday, February 3, 2011

Rating: *** $ Beau Joubert Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Stellenbosch, South Africa - Wine Review (BEST VALUE)

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 By way of background: Classic-looking label for a cabernet sauvignon from the well-known Stellenbosch area of South Africa - an area I most typically associate with dark, smoky elements to a wine. Beau Joubert Winery has a long history in the area, having been established all the way back in 1696. The cabernet sauvignon was aged in oak barrels for 12 months, and comes in at a definitely-new-world level of 14% alcohol.

Original Review, October, 2009:

In the glass: Beau Joubert is dutifully dark in the glass, fully opaque about 2/3 of an inch in from its burgundy-hued rim.

On the nose: Fruity, meaty, almost-nutty cabernet aromas come bursting through, somehow suggestive of being in a car mechanic garage - in a good way. I guess that's a bit of burned motor oil, perhaps.

On the palate: Oh, the smoky fill comes through early in this. It reaches up deep and back into your throat, carried along by an unusually tangy fruit. The mid-palate doesn't seem to offer much to "chew" on, but then the tannins start to drip in along the sides of your cheeks.

And the finish: The finish is defined by the sandy, tannic robe, combined with the somewhat hot alcohol finish.

In summary: A wine that's clearly serious. Not really knitted together well for me, however, so it can only take two stars. But a plus comes because I'd be a bit interested to see if this might do better with time. The winery suggests storage for up to seven years; and this bottle is only three years from the vintage date.
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Updated Review, over a year later, January, 2011:  Color has remained consistent.  Aromas remain meaty and nutty without the motor oil now.  Now the palate, though light, shows a solid balance of aromatics and minerality.  Smoky, deep fruit and sleek too.  Three stars now.  Excellent value.

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Tuesday, February 1, 2011

***+ $ Sterling Vintner's Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Central Coast, CA - Wine Review and Rating

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By way of background: The Sterling Vintner's Collection Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, hails from the Central Coast, California. It was aged in barrel and finished at a modest (by today's new world standards) 13.5% alcohol.

Original review, December, 2009:

In the glass: Deep dark burgundy/purple. Opaque about a half inch in from the sides of the glass.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, you get a creamy deep black cherry aroma, hints of vanilla from the oak.

On the palate: First note is an easy, lightly sweet middle palate, bringing blackberries and a touch of charcoal dust. Following the initial burst, more fresh plum flavors move with the tannins to your cheeks.

And the finish: Tannins tighten up with plum and acids, leaving length in your cheeks.

In summary: Middle-weight classic and pleasant cabernet sauvignon experience. Three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with potential for a couple years in the bottle, an hour or two in the decanter, or a day or two under vac-u-vin in a partial bottle.

Following long decant, one day under vacuum in partially-filled bottle... Aroma has faded, but retains similar characteristics. Palate is actually slightly better-knitted together now, though the charcoal dust is still a bit of a discordant note. Suggests a year or so in bottle wouldn't hurt.
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Updated review, one year later, January, 2011:  Color and aromas are consistent.  On the palate, you find a nicely knitted sweet red fruit on the mid-palate, with supporting tannins and acids.  Any discordant charcoal has weaved into the whole, offering just a hint of seriousness to the mix.  A plus gets added to the three stars for balance, making this a great value.

Find Sterling Vintner's Collection Cabernet Sauvignon  pricing and retail availability.