Sunday, March 6, 2011

***+ $ Raymond Merlot R Collection, 2005, CA - Wine Review and Rating (BEST VALUE)

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Original Review, January, 2010: The Raymond Merlot R Collection is a newer, value-priced line from the Raymond Estates vineyards and winery. The wine is aged for 12 months in French and American oak, and tips in at 13.8% alcohol. It shows value touches like synthetic cork that don't trouble me.

The selection of wines from across "California" references "Five generations of family winemaking in the Napa Valley" on the front label. So that does trouble me a bit. My first impression was naturally to think the wine represented Napa valley grapes. Nope. Not quite.

In fact, the producer on its own web site indicates that a portion (unspecified) of the grapes DO come from Napa. The balance (also unspecified percentages) come from the Sierra Foothills and San Joaquin Valley. In California, wines can be labeled by varietal name as long as 75% or more of the wine consists of that varietal. In this case, exactly 75% of Raymond Merlot R Collection is merlot; the remaining 25% is cabernet sauvignon. So, once again, the expectations may be slightly different from the reality of what's in the bottle.

The Raymond Estates have had a long quality tradition, so let's hold back on some of our sensitivities and see what is in the glass. Color is medium red, something between classical cabernet sauvignon and a lighter pinot noir. Following a 30 minute decant, aromas are classic, bold and pleasing - toasted, oaky prunes, some black cherry.

On the palate, an initial, full black cherry middle predominates. It is much rounder, bolder and more structured than the lighter color ever would have suggested. It is consistent with the aromas. Following the initial black cherry coating, the Raymond Merlot R Collection resolves into some acid tingles on the side of the mouth. Light tannins carry a sweet finish into a longer ending on the palate. Clean, nicely fading finish.

Three stars on this, with a plus for outstanding power and balance. Awesome value at its price - in fact, with its star rating two points above our quality rating, it meets criteria for a Spirit of Wine "best value".

Looks like I'll need to get over my hang-ups about California versus Napa Valley, 75% versus 100% and so on! In fact, this experience demonstrates that there are excellent values to be obtained in wines from the United States. Even in classical, and regularly maligned, varietals like merlot.
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Updated review, one year later, March, 2011:  This is now six years from vintage date.  Color has held consistent.   So has the nose, retaining a deep black cherry component.  A bit of clean laundry  funk has joined in.  On the palate, it is still the black cherry that predominates.  Full, furry, fruit, with solid tannin backup.  The acids have receded.  Still quite nice!  Who keeps a value-priced wine this long?  But this one has served its time well.  Would hold the score consistent at three stars with a plus for potency, still a best value. 

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Saturday, March 5, 2011

Wine Review & Rating: *** $$ Oelet Vines Meritage, California, 2009

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Oelet Vines Meritage, California, 2009, a blend of 50% merlot, 30% malbec and 20% cabernet sauvignon, vinted by MWD Vineyards and finished at 14.3% alcohol.

In the glass: Oelet is deep and bright burgundy. 

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this California meritage shows bright, purple-fruit aromatics.  Seems like it will be punchy, tangy, simple and fruity on the palate. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are actually somewhat more rounded and complex than anticipated.  Dark fruit with streaks of charcoal and light tannins, yet sweet and round in tone.  A violet aromatic flash comes in at the end of the sip, leading the modest length finish. 

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

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Wine Review & Rating: **+ $$ Potter's Hill Pinot Noir, California, 2008

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Potter's Hill Pinot Noir, California, 2008, vinted by MWD Vineyards of Santa Rosa, and finished at 13.5% alcohol.  It is from the WineInsiders line.

In the glass: Quite light ruby red. 

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this California pinot noir shows a shy but fairly classic nose of red currant, strawberry, light bramble and pepper.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a more pronounced black pepper on the roof of your mouth, followed by a soft, lightly sweet red currant wash.  The finish is clean, though quite brief.

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a strong plus for accessibility and pleasantness.  More of an entry-level simple style pinot noir at a stepped-up price point.

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Friday, March 4, 2011

Wine Review & Rating: ***+ $$ Luma Chequen Syrah Malbec Reserva, Valle Central, Chile, NV


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Initial review, by way of background: This is Luma Chequen Syrah Malbec Reserva, Valle Central, Chile, nv, finished at 13.% alcohol.

In the glass:  Deep magenta, opaque an inch in from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Chilean syrah/malbec shows funky deep and strong, tangy of vegetable amongst some deep, ruddy fruit.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are smoky and deep fruity blackcurrant.  Peppery, decent length finish.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for complexity and depth.

Following long decant, two days kept cool under vacuum in partially filled bottle:  Nose and palate have remained consistent.  We'll try an even longer decant...

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Wine Review & Rating: *** $$ Roca Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina, 2008

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Roca Cabernet Sauvignon, Mendoza, Argentina, 2008, finished at 14.6% alcohol, a selection from MyWinesDirect.

In the glass: Dark magenta, opaque a half inch in from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Mendoza cab shows a structured and dark fruit nose, some earth and dry leaves mixed in.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a full, deep, somewhat purple-complex black fruit, combining blackberries and black currants.  A deep, sweet streak runs through it, finishing with a wash of tannins. Solid structure and fruit.

In summary: Overall, rates a solid three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, two days kept cool under vacuum in partially filled bottle:  Nose is brighter now and shows some pepper too.  Palate has developed some nice depth and darkness.  and palate have remained consistent.  We'll try an even longer decant too... 

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Wine Review & Rating: ***+ $$ Vina La Playa Axel Syrah, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2007

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Viña La Playa Axel Syrah, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2007, finished at 14.% alcohol.  This small production wine is made by the Axelsen family, with patriarch Søren originally hailing from Copenhagen, Denmark.  



In the glass: La Playa Axel shows as brilliant ruby magenta, opaque in the center. 

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Chilean syrah shows a bold, sweet blood nose, with broody, inky and fruity elements all playing off each other. 

On the palate: The fruit wins on the palate, with a brighter-than-expected purple middle.  Acids are there for sure, and likely some tannins.  This will need to settle down for awhile with a longer decant to properly assess.

In summary: Overall, tentatively rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, because for the nose alone I would return for another glass.  But watch this space to see what a long decant achieves...

Following 6-hour decant:   The nose has closed in a bit, though showing the same stylistic elements of dark ink and fruit.  Now a much better balance on the palate, with rich, sturdy blackberry fruit showing solid supporting tannins and acids that are well in-check.  Puts this solidly in the three-star camp.  I'm interested to see what will happen with even lengthier decanting, so I will keep a partial bottle cool under vacuum for a few days...

Following long decant, three days kept cool under vacuum in partially filled bottle: Deep, blood red nose has held well.  The decant has brought a much richer, lusher balance to the palate.  Chewy tannins provide nice support to a deep, very rich, very ripe, blackest of blackberry middles.  Some cocoa in there, almost chocolate.  Notches a plus on top of the three stars, and crowds towards a fourth star.  Good value, and I'm going to try an EVEN longer decant...

And even longer decant, two more days kept cool in partially filled bottle without vacuum:  Still bloody and sweet/beefy on the nose, now somewhat bright too. Deep and full still on the palate, finishing bright. Held up well.
 
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(PRACTICALLY FREE) *** $ L'Affiche Pinot Noir, 2007, France - Wine Review and Rating (BEST VALUE)

By way of background: L'Affiche Pinot Noir is a super-bargain-priced pinot noir from Vin de Pays de L'Herault in the south of France. It is finished at 12.5% alcohol, extremely low for a dry red wine these days. I continue to "take one for the team" by trying to find decent, modestly-priced pinot noirs... usually to my continuing disappointment. Let's see how we do this time.

Original Review, October, 2009:

In the glass: L'Affiche Pinot Noir is medium ruddy red throughout, husky-looking for a pinot noir.

On the nose: A kind of bold, candied strawberry essence pours from the glass, maybe even with a rhubarb note. Seems like it will be kind of sharp-elbowed.

On the palate: When you sip, you get a roundness and sharpness both at the same time. The roundness is a touch of ripe red currant fruit right smack in the mid-palate. The sharpness is a quick vegetable note - is that the rhubarb again? Acids do come in to drive the sip up deep into the sides of your cheeks.

And the finish: The finish is defined by the acids, but a touch of sugar remains. Not a profound finish, but it clears your palate and readies you for the next sip.

In summary: A very pleasant, bright-toned experience overall - not memorable or compelling enough to necessarily draw me back again; but leaves me with fond enough memories, even if they'll be short-lived. Two stars with a plus for those memories. Good - but not best - value.
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Updated review, a year and a half later, March, 2011:  Color and aromas are consistent, still that candy purple sweetness on the nose.  On the palate, a light, round, smooth red currant experience. The acids have settled and any trace of vegetable or rhubarb is gone.  Not complex or long, just a full-fledged pleasant mid-red experience.  Just touches three stars now, and becomes a best value at this "practically free" price.

Following long decant, two days kept cool in partially filled bottle:  Cooked sweet nose. Palate holds its red sweetness but still tinged with overwhelming oxidation.  Don't risk decant.  Drink right from bottle.    

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Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Wine Review & Rating: ***+ $$ Annie's Lane Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia, 2006

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Initial review, by way of background: This is Annie's Lane Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia, 2006. 

In the glass: Clear, light yellow and golden highlights.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Clare Valley riesling shows salty stainless steel and sweet characters.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a salty-sweet round midpalate, bringing lemon and light butterscotch.  Finish lingers with a bit of residual sugar and a surprising quick and gentle bitter flash.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, three days kept cool under vacuum in a partially filled bottle:   Same salty, sweet, stainless steel nose, now a little huskier.  The palate has held fast, with no lemon now.  Sleeker.  Adding a plus now for the balance, and making this a good value.  Consider a brief decant.

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