Saturday, May 7, 2011

Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: *** $ Taylor Dry Sherry, New York, non-vintage - (BEST VALUE)

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By way of background: Taylor Wine Company is a ubiquitous winery from New York State, known for supermarket-priced sweet red wines in the northeast states. Here we are trying Taylor's Dry Sherry. 

Initial review : This is Taylor Wine Company Dry Sherry, New York, non-vintage, finished at 18.% alcohol.

In the glass: Taylor Dry Sherry shows as a golden Scotch in color.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows sweet shredded bark, tobacco and light oxidation.  From the aroma, seems like this will be just lightly sweet and fragrant.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact lightly sweet, indeed, with just lightly oxidized elements of orange citrus and almond butter.  Finish brings a touch of tobacco and finishes quite clean, given some residual sugar.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, and becomes a best value because of its mass-market pricing level. 

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Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: *** $ Taylor Wine Company Port, New York, non-vintage - (BEST VALUE)

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By way of background: Taylor Wine Company is a  New York State winery known mostly for its supermarket-prices sweet red wines, with production dating back to the 1880's. Here we are trying one of these classics, Taylor's New York Port. 


Initial review : This is Taylor Wine Company Port, New York, non-vintage, finished at 18.% alcohol.

In the glass: Taylor Port shows as light ruby red with brick overtones. 


On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows that "foxy" sweet note distinctive of concord grapes, with some sweet, soft side notes.  From the aroma, seems like this will be just lightly sweet and bright, with a simple style.


On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact very sweet red cherry, lush to the mid-palate, with less of the concord-style than I would have guessed.  Along with the cherries, there is a light acidity from an orange-citrus zest.  Finish is silky, with little sugar cloy.


In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, and is a pleasant, though admittedly simple sip.  Think served cool in the summer. This is a best value at the bargain pricing.   


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Friday, May 6, 2011

Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: ***+ $$ Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed Grenache, McLaren Vale, Australia, 2002 (GOOD VALUE)

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By way of background: McLaren Vale, Australia, is well-known for its offerings of shiraz.  Today, however, I am trying something different - a grenache from that region.  To boot, this is a grenache which has been aged nine years from vintage date.  We'll see what that may do to the classic, bright grenache flavors...

Initial review : This is Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed Grenache, McLaren Vale, Australia, 2002, finished at 13.4% alcohol, extremely shy and conservative by south Australia standards.

In the glass:  Reynella Grenache is deep magenta, opaque from about a half inch in from the edge of the glass.  The rim shows red with just hints of brick.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows sweet and bright deep fruit, laced with cinnamon and touched with oak.  From the aroma, seems like this will be rich, soft, full-throttle, maybe spicy.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact a deep luscious blackberry, touched by highlights of bright raspberry. It is a mouth-filling experience, bringing far more power than implied by its modest alcohol level.   Light pepper comes on as the sip fades.  The fruit gently gives way to light acids and a clean finish that seems to make your whole mouth sparkle. 

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a big plus for its bright red layers.  Good value.  Just shy of four stars.

Following long decant, three hours at room temperature in flat-bottomed decanter:  On the nose, sweet and classic deep fruit.  The palate is blueberry and blackberry, nicely balanced and consistent with the experience directly from the bottle. 

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Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: ***+ $ Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Cotes du Rhone, 2007, Cornas, Rhone, France

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 By way of background, original review, November, 2009: Jean-Luc Colombo Les Abeilles Cotes du Rhone, 2007, is from the increasingly-well-known Cornas-based winemaker and negociant, Jean-Luc Colombo. He is known for producing traditional French grapes with a bit more "new world" flair. "Les Abeilles" - meaning "bees" in French - is a blend of southern Rhone red grapes from quarter-century old vines. This year's blend is 50% grenache, 30% syrah and 20% mourvedre - what is often called a "CdR", a "Rhone blend" or sometimes "GSM".


In the glass: Les Abeilles is deep magenta red in the glass. It moves to opaque only about a half-inch in from the edge.

On the nose: The aromas of Les Abeilles are subtle and restrained, yet quite enticing. They are deep, slightly forest-y, with overtones of fresh plums.

On the palate: On the sip, full-front rich plum flavors touch the tip of your tongue and the front of your mouth - almost your teeth. The robe of deep red fruit flavor moves backwards then, along the sides of your mouth. It carries an element of acidity and spiciness, but that is just one component of an overall bolder blend. A bit of older world earthiness also settles in as the tannins cloak things.

And the finish: Solid, clean and medium in length, it does twist your upper cheeks up just at the finish, with one last acid zinger.

In summary: Excellent overall experience, one to be repeated. That's three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, and makes this an outstanding value wine at its price point.
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Updated review, about a year and a half later, May, 2011:  Still deep magenta red in the glass, but not moving to opaque, even in the center.  Sandy sweet deep red nose with hint of plums.  Sweet, full red berries flood your mouth, bringing insanely succulent yet still bright red fruit everywhere.  Still some acids and tannins to shuttle the fruit around.  The finish builds with brightness, and lingers with little traces of fruit in your cheeks.  This is a pleasant lighter-bodied red wine experience.   Gets a plus for the pleasantness, and becomes an awesome best value at its crazy low price.  Seems to be a testament of the quality of the 2007 vintage in the Cote de Rhone region of France.  Following long decant, three hours in flat-bottomed decanter:  Nose has gone shy.  Palate has gone softer, still pleasant and retaining its brightness.  Not harmed by the air time, but not particularly advantaged either.

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Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: *** $ Vina Tarpaca Gran Tarapaca Pinot Noir Reservado, 2008, Casablanca Valley, Chile - Zagat Wine Club Offering (BEST VALUE)

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By way of background, original review, November, 2009: Gran Tarapaca Pinot Noir Reservado from the Casablanca Valley area of Chile was acquired as part of the introductory Zagat Wine Club selection. It also seems to be a regular component of other wine club offerings, including such as WSJWine (Wall Street Journal Wine) and the Sunday Times Wine Club of the UK.  This publication is an affiliate with Zagat, although this wine was purchased, not provided as a sample.


"ZagatWine" - part of the broad Laithwaites Wine group from the UK - is promoted by the well known Zagat Survey group, offered by founders Nina and Tim Zagat. This collection included a case of 12 wines, with four reds and four whites each. The initial shipment arrives with a promotional pitch to have your friends join the club, along with one-pagers on each of the delivered wines.

For the Gran Tarapaca Pinot Noir, the description broadly tells you a bit more about the vineyards and winemaking than some of the other offerings in this series. Though to me, the information density lags the non-green-nature associated with the heavy-stock, glossy printed, four-color brochures accompanying the wines.

Frankly, the label tells us more: aging was five months in oak barrels (no indication whether new or pre-used), and the wine is finished at 14% alcohol (the brochure reports a quite different 13%). Sigh. Let's try the wine itself...

In the glass: Deep pink to light red, slight ruby hints, no opacity.

On the nose: Smoky and deep raspberry aromas, some oak and red currants too.

On the palate: Simple bright red cherry fruit first, with a little hint of smoke. It touches just a point on the middle of your tongue. When you seek a wider taste, the solid red cherry flows along the surface of your tongue. It doesn't really want to climb your cheeks, or crawl up into your nostrils. Just stays on your tongue. Sweet, even.

And the finish: The finish is a clean fade, sweet with a bit of charcoal bitterness. Ends clean and fairly brief.

In summary: Nice experience overall, but not memorable. Two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale for its pleasantness, with a plus for its approachability. Decent value at introductory Zagat Wine Club price.
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Updated review, a year and a half later, May, 2011:   Color is consistent, light red throughout.  Whoa, bold oaky, funky deep fruit aromas.  On the palate, the deep funky red fruit coat your tongue and curl into your cheeks.  Soft, persistent and lush now.  Moved up a notch to three stars, with its insistent but pleasant funkiness.  Best value now. Following long decant, full day in partially-filled bottle kept vacuum
: Palate is entirely consistent.  We'll try more air...Following even longer decant, two days kept cool in partially-filled bottle, with no vacuum:  Still funky red fruit on the nose.  Palate remains soft, persistent, lush and slightly funky.  Held up well. 

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Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: **** $ Columbia Crest Two Vines Merlot Cabernet, 2006, Washington State

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By way of background, original review, November, 2009: Two Vines is the value-based label from Columbia Crest, wines made from grapes of the Washington State area. The Merlot-Cabernet blend for 2006 consists of 75% merlot, 20% cabernet franc and 5% cabernet sauvignon. The Columbia Valley vineyards from which these grapes are harvested are located just east of the Cascade Mountain range in Washington State.



The "Two Vines" label is named from the trellising approach used within the Columbia Crest vineyards dedicated to these wines.

Two Vines Merlot Cabernet is aged in small oak barrels and finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: This blend shows as medium deep red in the glass, with hints of purple added to the mix.

On the nose: Aromas are bold, deep, oaky, charcoal and black-fruited.

On the palate: A rich even midpalate is the first impression. Quite lush overall - think of a velour robe. Clear, rich, sweet merlot fruit, wrapped in significant oak. Light tannins bring the dark berry fruit into the sides of your mouth, letting it slowly settle along your cheeks.

And the finish: Full, even, sweet and rich fruit flavors fade slowly, leaving an even sheen of red berry plus oak at the closing moment.

In summary: Remarkably full and robust experience overall. Although I could not see laying this down for aging, it does earn a surprisingly strong four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, due to its pleasure and rich potency. Incredible value.
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Updated review, a year and a half later, May, 2011:  Now the color at the edge has migrated from purple towards brick.  Sweet, dark-fruited aromas, not quite as bold now.  Remains a simple, clean merlot fruit on the palate, with nice surround sound of ripe red berries and gentle tannins.  Held up remarkably well to time in bottle given the bargain price point. Following long decant, one day kept cool in partially-filled bottle:  Aromas remain sweet, dark and funky.  Palate holds its nice layered balance of red fruit and slightly darker oak.

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Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: *** $ Line 39 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Lake County, CA (BEST BUY)

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By way of background, original review, November, 2009: Line 39 is a second, modestly-priced line of wines from Cecchetti Wine Company, also maker of the wide-selling, bargain-priced Redtree line. Line 39 offers wines from Lake County AVA, a wine region in California north of Napa Valley. "39" refers to 39 degrees latitude, a latitude shared by this wine line and a number of other wine growing regions of the world.

Line 39 is one of the faster growing wine brands in the United States in recent years. Varietals in the line include cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon blanc and petite sirah.

Here we're sampling the Line 39 Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006, Lake County, CA. Winemaker Bob Broman finished the wine at 13.5% alcohol, actually somewhat modest by new world cabernet sauvignon standards.

In the glass: Line 39 Cabernet Sauvignon is deep blood red in the glass, moving to opaque about an inch in from the sides.

On the nose: Modestly shy, but vibrant nose, carrying red and bramble fruit flavors, along with a hint of pomegranate.

On the palate: A charry, smoked red fruit is the first note to hit your upper palate. It creates an umbrella, which allows the sweeter, tannin-laced fruits to glide down along your cheeks. Acids are mild, making this sip easy throughout your mouth.

And the finish: Fairly brief, though clean, leaving an overall impression of red currants when faded.

In summary: An easy-going experience that still brings some complexity, balance and nuance. Two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its balanced elements. That makes this a good value at an excellent price point.

Review wine provided by Cecchetti Wine Company.
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Updated Review, a year and a half later, May, 2011:  Color is consistent.  Nose has grown warmer, funkier in an interesting way, with thick fruit and soft wood.  On the palate, a muddled red berry mix, with a few red jujube's thrown in for fun.  Quite bright on the finish.  Consistent scoring. Following long decant, full day in wide bottomed decanter:  Light tobacco on nose.  Soft, gentle and layered red fruit.  Notches up to three stars, becoming a best value. 

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Sunday, May 1, 2011

Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: ***+ $$ Forbes Creek Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake County, California, 2007

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By way of background: Lake County is a California region adjacent to Napa Valley starting to come into its own especially for cabernet sauvignon.  Here is a modestly priced cab from the region.  It was purchased as part of a Zagat Wine mixed pack, for which site also acts as an affiliate.

Initial review : This is Forbes Creek Vintage Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, Lake County, California, 2007, finished at 14.1% alcohol in a combination of French and American oak barrels.  It turns out this is an updated review from a prior review of over a year ago, as I had sampled this same wine and vintage about a year and a half ago.

In the glass: Forbes Creek shows as dark burgundy, opaque in the center of the glass. 

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, brings a shy and somewhat simple, purple aroma, characteristic of some simple merlots from California.  From the aroma, seems like this will be soft, lightly sweet and perhaps simple. 

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact more layered and varied than anticipated.  Some dark, almost char-broiled sweet fruit touch your palate first, ringed with solid blackberry flavors with some blueberry tones.  Sufficient tannins and acids surround the fruit to bring a nice complexity and tail to the finish. 

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its attractive demeanor and balance.  Good value at the one-off bottle price, and best value at its mixed-case pricing.

Following long decant, two days kept cool in partially filled bottle:  Aroma is picking up small hints of complexity, with cocoa and sand.  Palate has remained consistent, with some appealing layers. 

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Spirit of Wine Review & Rating: *** $$ Abby Road Merlot, Washington State, 2009

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By way of background: Washington State has become increasingly more well-regarded for merlot and cabernet sauvignon varietals.  Here is one that is in the value priced category.

Initial review : This is Abby Road Merlot, Washington State, 2009, finished at 13.5% alcohol.  A Barclay's Wine selection, this is built from a blend of 79% Merlot, 9% Sangiovese, 5% Syrah, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Lemberger.

In the glass: Abby Road Merlot shows a deep ruby red, not quite opaque anywhere in the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows a sweet and simple merlot purple nose, with just a touch of oak.  From the aroma, seems like this will be straightforward, sweet and pleasant, without challenge, but potentially without much character.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact rich and layered on the sweet mid-palate, bringing the expected plums, but in a seductive velvet cloak, with some cinnamon and milk chocolate overtones. 

In summary: Overall, a very friendly offering, rating three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, two days kept cool in partially-filled bottle:  The nose is still poignant, but more balanced now.  More mineral and less velvet on the palate now, rich and balanced.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved.  (If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.)  

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