Spirit of Wine

Review: **+ $ Ruffino Chianti, Il Leo Superiore, 2003, Italy - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-28T17:36:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Ruffino is a well-known name in affordable chiantis. The Ruffino Il Leo Chianti Superiore, 2003, is one of their "practically free" offerings.

Original review, November, 2008:

In the glass, this 2003 chianti is medium deep red, turning brick at the edges after five years of aging.

Aromas are old-school, shy, a bit leafy with a touch of broccoli and barnyard along with the fruit.

On the palate, acids and older tannins show forth as the first elements, bringing along the subdued, but still slightly sweet fruit. Not a whole lot of layers. The finish is pleasant, though simple and brief.

Two stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for wearing nice classical attire in its aromas and palate. Good value at its attractive price point.

Notes from the winery say this: "Ruby red color, with a vibrant and generous aroma. The first flowery notes, reminiscent of sweet violet, are followed by hints of cherry and red berries with delicate spicy tones of vanilla and cloves due to the ageing in wood. The finish is reminiscent of plum jam. The attractive smoothness of the flavor is a result of a good balance between tannin profile, alcohol and fruity body."

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Quickie Review: *** $$ Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, California, 2007

2012-01-28T17:21:00.001-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma, California, 2007. Fun, black cherry on the nose. On the palate this is purple and solid.

Overall: Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: **** $$ Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay, California, 2009 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-28T17:17:00.002-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Chateau St. Jean Chardonnay, California, 2009. Shows soft and fruity on the nose, solid with sleek fruit on the palate.

Overall: Rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, making this a definite best value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: ***+ $$ Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc, California, 2010 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-28T17:14:00.002-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Chateau St. Jean Fume Blanc, California, 2010, made of sauvignon blanc grapes. Yeasty and sweet on the nose, proves to be even and round on the palate.

Overall: Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its fun-loving character. Good value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: ***+ $$ Montes Syrah Alpha, Chile, 2007 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-28T17:09:00.003-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Montes Syrah Alpha, Chile, 2007. Deep and oxidized on the nose, but moves to rich, dark, purple tones on the palate.

Overall: Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for potency. Good value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: ***+ $$ Montes Carmenere Alpha, Chile, 2009 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-28T17:06:00.000-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Montes Carmenere Alpha, Chile, 2009. Bold, with fun, funky, minty elements on the nose. Round and integrated on the palate.

Overall: Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a big plus for its awesome fun nature. Good value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: **** $$ Montes Cabernet Sauvignon Alpha, Chile, 2008 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-28T17:01:00.000-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Montes Cabernet Sauvignon Alpha, Chile, 2008. Sweet and tempting on the nose, with red fruits and tannic length on the palate that matches high expectations.

Overall: Rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. Best value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: ***+ $$ Montes Pinot Noir Alpha, Chile, 2008- GOOD VALUE

2012-01-28T16:21:00.001-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Montes Pinot Noir Alpha, Chile, 2008. Shows funky and bold in the nose and on the palate.

Overall: Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its uniqueness.Good value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: ***+ $$ Montes Pinot Noir Limited Selection, Chile, 2009 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-28T16:18:00.002-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Montes Pinot Noir Limited Selection, Chile, 2009. Deep and red in the glass, it show classic but not distinctive pinot noir character.

Overall: Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for being so solid. Good value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: *** $$ Montes Chardonnay Alpha, Chile, 2009

2012-01-28T16:16:00.000-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: Montes Chardonnay Alpha White, Chile, 2009. Fun, generic and solid white.

Overall: Rates 3 stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Quickie Review: ***+ $$ Montes Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection White, Chile, 2010 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-28T16:13:00.000-05:00

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About quickie reviews: These review are made on the run, typically at large wine tastings, where the opportunity to settle in with a wine is limited. Nonetheless, key elements on the nose or palate are indicated, along with Spirit of Wine rating.

Quickie tasting notes: This is Montes Sauvignon Blanc Limited Selection White, Chile, 2010. Aromas and palate blow you away with grassiness.

Overall: Rates 3 stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its solid character. Good value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured in a full-length Spirit of Wine review including custom photography, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Updated Review: ***+ $$ Marquis Philips Sarah's Blend Red Wine, South Eastern Australia, 2005 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-27T21:15:00.000-05:00

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By way of background:This is my first trial of the 2005 vintage of Marquis Philips' Sarah's Blend from South Eastern Australia, which I have enjoyed immensely before, in the form of the 2004 and 2006 vintages. The 2005 vintage, finished at a whopping 15.9% alcohol, is 60% shiraz, 22% cabernet sauvignon, 15% merlot, and 3% cabernet franc. It is fermented in wood and aged in both new and one-year-old French and American oak. The wine is named for Sarah Marquis, one of the winemakers back in the days before Sarah and her husband Sparky separated from Dan Philips to create their own Mollydooker label.

Original review, December, 2009:

In the glass:This vintage of Sarah's Blend is deep velvet magenta in the glass, opaque to within 1/2 inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, aromas are deep, bold black grape creamsicle, laced with a nicely knitted well-toasted oak scarf.

On the palate: First note is a creamy and bright and bold mid-tongue creamy raspberry, somehow bringing both depth and brightness in the same moment. As the flavors mature in your mouth, the black raspberries trail towards the back of your tongue and along your cheeks.

And the finish: A tiny hint of motor oil comes in for the close, reminding you that this experience intends to hang on for a considerable duration.

In summary:Outstanding, bold and bright experience, with some classic and some new-world elements. A full three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for potentially being so many things to so many people. And for being a pure delight for me. Good value.

Robert Parker of Wine Advocate thought very highly of Sarah's Blend, 2005, awarding 91 points and saying, ""One of my favorite Marquis Philips cuvees... Its deep ruby/purple hue is accompanied by aromas of flowers, spice box, blueberries, black currants, and smoky oak. Opulent, voluptuous, and full-bodied, with low acidity and sweet tannin, this is a blockbuster red that sells for a song. If you like fruit, flavor, and character, this is a big-time winner to drink over the next 3-4 years."
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Updated review, over two years later, January, 2012: Color hasn't changed. However, on the nose there is a notable oxidation mixed with the candy and creamsicle aromas. Sweet black raspberries remain on the compelling but slightly soggy palate. Now, seven years from vintage date, its bones are just beginning to creak.

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Updated Review: ****+ $$ Schild Estate Shiraz, Barossa, Australia, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-27T19:53:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Schild Estate Shiraz from Barossa, Australia, vintage 2007, is a purebred shiraz finished at 14.5% alcohol.

Original review, January, 2010:

In the glass: Schild Estate Shiraz shows as deep dark red, opaque to within a half inch of the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, the wine billows out strong, toasty dark cherry fruit, with elements of cocoa and black currant.

On the palate: The first element is a dark, rich, almost black chocolate coating at the front of your mouth. This isn't sweet, but it is thick and luscious. That opens into full black cherry tannins that roll back across your tongue. They hold fast as tiny prickles of acid play with the top of your tongue.

And the finish: A long, long finish flows from the thick fruit, holding that dry, dark chocolate element around for the next sip.

In summary: Overall, this is a deep. lush, dry and rich experience. I believe it would crowd out other wines for me for an evening, yielding four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. Outstanding value.

Wine Spectator thought highly of this too, awarding 92 points, and reporting, "Polished and generous, offering a racy mouthful of tobacco-accented cherry and black currant fruit that finishes with an edge of dried sage, licorice and fresh cream. This lingers impressively, showing amazing depth. Drink now through 2017. 8,200 cases made."
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Updated review, over two years later, now five years from vintage date, January, 2012: Consistent color. Gobs of sweet, black macerated cherries on the nose. Compelling spices and oak backing up those black cherries. The palate is almost unchanged with black chocolate-coated black cherries for miles. Yet still lively and finishing clean. Gets a plus for longevity and remains an absolute best value.

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Review: *** $$ Domaine de Triennes St Auguste, Var, Provence, France, 2005

2012-01-26T21:32:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: The Var region of Provence, France, is a lesser-known high-altitude wine-growing region. Today we are sampling a unique blend from the region, which has seen seven years of aging from vintage date.

Original tasting and review : This is Domaine de Triennes St Auguste, Var, Provence, France, 2005, finished at 13.5% alcohol. It is a blend of syrah, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

In the glass: Deep burgundy, opaque in the middle, still sporting a purple rim. That's quite surprising at this age!

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft and very gentle red berry aromas and hints of spice. From the aroma, seems like this will be subtle and balanced.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact soft, bright and full, well-balanced with subtle sweetness and Indian spices lightening a solid underlying structure. This has held up extraordinarily well to the seven years of aging.

In summary: Overall, solid, balanced red rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Just a hint of red hard candy appears on the nose. The palate has taken on an impressive combination of light red fruit, gentle charcoal darkness and supporting tannins.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Updated Review: **** $ Earthworks Shiraz Barossa Valley 2006, Australia - BEST VALUE

2012-01-26T18:04:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Earthworks Shiraz Barossa Valley, 2006, is from the highly-regarded Barossa Valley region of Australia, definitely known and respected for its old-vine shiraz.

Earthworks wine is essentially a negotiant wine, meaning the grapes are collected from farms around the region. Alcohol level is 14.5%, consistent with shiraz from this area.

Original review, May, 2009:

In the glass, Earthworks shows as a deep, dusty, brick-hued red, no hints of purple on this three-year-old specimen.

On the nose: Swirling hurls some of the candy apple aromas into the air. On closer attention, you can pick up some of those deep, ripe plum/fruit aromas along with hints of the inside of a new balloon - almost an overripe funk. That will probably blow off with a short decant.

On the palate, Earthworks touches the middle of your mouth with full fruit, sparkling a bit of spice to the sides. Acids tickle your cheeks, and a nice tannin flush provides for a reasonably-lengthy, slightly sweet finish. Solid stuff. Not so overwhelming that it couldn't accompany a meal. Three stars, making it an outstanding value.

Ready to drink now, but a couple more years in bottle won't do any harm.

Jay Miller of the Wine Advocate gave this 90 points, and wrote, "The 2006 Shiraz saw an identical regimen of tank and barrel. Purple-colored, it exhibits aromas of smoke, sausage, bacon, and blueberry which jumps from the glass. Medium-bodied, ripe, and sweet with no hard edges, this superb value can be enjoyed over the next 4-6 years."
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Updated review, over two and a half years later, January, 2012: Consistent color. The helium aromas are gone from this six-year-old bottle, but the candy apple deep fruit remains. Consistent notes on the palate, blending deep fruit with a bright acid coating. Gets a plus for balance and longevity and remains a best value. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Candy apple has become more candy cherry on the nose. Deep and sweet. Thick and deep with a wonderful creamy lift too. Hits four stars. Awesome value!

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Updated Review: *** $ Haddon Cellars Merlot, 2002, CA - BEST VALUE

2012-01-22T19:12:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Haddon Cellars Merlot, 2002, from unspecified vineyard regions of California was offered as part of the Wine Insiders series. It is finished at 12% alcohol, quite light by U.S. standards.

Original Review February 2007: Medium brick, ruby color. Slightly flat cherry cola aroma. More pleasant flavors than suggested by the nose -- deep berries, round, a touch of acids and tannins. Finishes quick with a hint of plum and blueberry. Easy to move on to something else...

Updated Review July 2007: Consistent notes. Not improved with additional age. Slightly more acidic and tannic than earlier. Moving from original **+ to **.
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Updated Review two and a half years later, December, 2009...

In the glass: This is showing medium dark brick red, not really opaque anywhere.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, aromas lean towards cherry vinegar. Not appealing.

On the palate: A first note of hyper-ripe sweet black raspberries steeped in oak touches your mid-palate, quite a pleasant surprise after the aroma. The flavors move to your cheeks with no noticeable added notes of tannin or acid.

And the finish: Rests in your upper palate for a few moments, bright and crisp, then ends with just a touch of sugar cloy.

In summary: Now seven years from the vintage date, this has become a generally pleasant experience - not great distinction nor complexity, but a satisfying mid-level table red wine. I don't believe I'd seek it out again, so it falls just short of three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. We'll go with two stars and a plus for impressive improvement over the years. Decent value.

After long decant, three days in partial bottle under vacuum... Aromas improved, now lightly sweet raspberry. Palate has held solid, now better knitted-together. Finish is nicer too, not sugary, but holds a little more acid "snap" in your cheeks. Moves to three stars with the vacuum decant, and now becomes a best value at its practically free price.
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Updated review, over two years later, now a full decade from vintage date, January, 2012: Still thin cherry on the nose. Light and sweet raspberries remain on the palate. Solid. Following long decant, three full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Sweet cherry on the nose and sweeter raspberries on the palate.

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Updated Review: ***+ $ Kanonkop Kadette, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2008 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-22T18:03:00.000-05:00

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By way of background:Kanonkop Kadette is a dry red wine from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa. It is made from a blend of 45% pinotage, 29% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and 9% cabernet franc, all finished at 14% alcohol for the 2008 vintage.

Original review, January, 2010:

In the glass: Kanonkop Kadette shows as bold purple in the glass, opaque to within one inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, the wine displays bold notes of smoky peat and deep black fruit.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is the smoked cherries that move up boldly into your nose, followed by a bright and acidic wash across your tongue. It turns slightly slick as it moves.

And the finish: Settles into the back of your mouth with clean acids and a deep fruit residue.

In summary: Overall, just reaches three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale for its solid character and potential for a couple more years of aging. Great value at its low-end price point.

Wine Enthusiast liked this a lot, awarding 91 points and reporting, "This blend of Pinotage, Cabernet, Merlot & Cabernet Franc is full-bodied & complex, with layered aromas of cherry, banana & warming spices, & smooth, elegant flavors of cedar, cherry, tobacco smoke & red berries. Velvety, soft tannins & a clean finish give it a classy touch. The wine can age, but drink now & you won't be disappointed."

Following a two-day decant via vacuum in partial bottle: the wine holds up very well, with the acids knitting evenly into the wine now.
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Updated review, two years later, January, 2012: Consistent color and aroma. Black cherries and acids blend on the palate, forming a big and impressive impact. Adds a plus for potent balance and remains a best value. Following long decant, three full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Held up quite well to the extra air, no notably changes elements.

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Updated Review: ***+ $ Este de Bodegas Alto Almanzora, Vino De Mesa, Spain - BEST VALUE

2012-01-22T16:39:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The Este Bodegas Alto Almanzora, Vino De Mesa, Spain, shows no vintage date on its labels. I'm presuming it is 2006 vintage. From searching, I also believe it to be a mix of monastrell, cabernet sauvignon, grenache, merlot, syrah and tempranillo grapes. Certainly a wine that prefers to wrap its heritage in intrigue!

Original review, May, 2009: Intrigue or not, let's see what it delivers... In the glass, Este is medium deep dusty red. Bright, red fruit aromas laced with oak dust pump out of the glass.

A sweet, furry robe is the first sensation when you sip Este. A touch of candy apple, but more balanced sweet, red currant, softened by a tweedy wrap of silty tannins. Lively, fluffy and full. Finishes sweet with the slightest "twang" of acid. Quite balanced overall, not overplaying its 14 percent alcohol.

Three stars with a plus for joyous accessibility paired with balance and complexity. Not quite the intensity nor complexity to drive it to a four-star choice, which means I would shun all other wines for the evening. Nonetheless, dynamite value at its price.
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Updated review, over two years later, January, 2012: Perky bright red aromas come to the fore. On the palate, bright red fruits huddle with solid tannins and bright acids to create a balanced light-red experience. Remains a best value. Following long decant, three days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Funkiness with the red fruits. On the palate, too much vegetable comes forward; shouldn't decant this long.

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Updated review: **** $ Visionario Bianco Delle Venezie, 2008, Italy - BEST VALUE

2012-01-22T15:00:00.000-05:00

Find prices and availability for Zagat Wine introductory mixed case.

By way of background: Visionario is a white wine blend from a range of grapes acquired from throughout Friuli and Collio, Italy, called a "Venezie IGT". It hails from the northeast tip of Italy. Finished unoaked, Visionario arrives with 13% alcohol.

It was acquired as part of the introductory Zagat Wine Club selection. It also seems to be a regular component of other wine club offerings, including such as WSJWine (Wall Street Journal Wine), Sunday Times (UK) Wine Club and 4seasonswine.

"ZagatWine" - part of the broad Laithwaites Wine group from the UK - is promoted by the well known Zagat Survey group, offered by founders Nina and Tim Zagat. This collection included a case of 12 wines, with four reds and four whites each. The initial shipment arrives with a promotional pitch to have your friends join the club, along with one-pagers on each of the delivered wines.

Original review, November, 2009:

In the glass: Visionario shows as clear in the glass, with just a hint of vanilla/yellow.

On the nose: Popped, poured and swirled, this shows stainless steel cut grass reminiscent of sauvignon blanc with a bit of verdelho-like oiliness.

On the palate: A creamy-sweet mid-palate is the first note, quite lush, smooth and just slightly mineral. Sweet grapefruit and pineapple then curl with light acids up your cheeks. A squeeze of lemon adds to the briskness.

And the finish: The sweetness fades to a pleasant, light acid twang; the acids slowly fade, leaving a clean finish with just a hint of citrus. Definitely readies you for the next sip.

In summary: Outstanding experience in a value-priced white wine. I wouldn't change whites in the middle of the night with this, thus four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. Phenomenal value at the low introductory price.
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Updated review, over two years later, January, 2012: Color remains the same. Nose shows sweet grass. Palate shows the same mix of sweetness, minerality, lushness and tangy fruit. Finish is delightfully clean and fresh. Remains an awesome value now at four years since vintage date. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: This held perfectly firm and consistent on the nose and palate.

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Review: ***+ $$ Simi Zinfandel, Sonoma, California, 2005 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-21T19:01:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Quite a few zinfandels emanate from Sonoma County in California. Simi is known for a fruity version. Here we are sampling one with a few years in the cellar. If you're a cabernet fan, we also sampled Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon recently. You can see that review here.

Original tasting and review : This is Simi Zinfandel, Sonoma, California, 2005, finished at 13.5% alcohol, frankly fairly modest by Sonoma standards.

In the glass: Deep magenta, opaque from about a half inch from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows a little bit of helium (which will in all probability blow off with some air) and fat, blousy red and purple fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be savory and easy-going.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact a full, rich, fruity and bacon-filled fruit, with soft spices coming on behind the red fruit. The finish is clean, bright and fairly rapid.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for the bright, non-jammy, red-fruit balance. Good value.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Helium gone as expected and the fat fruit remains on the nose. Still a spice and fruit-filled palate, with pleasant elements of motor oil.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Simi Zinfandel.

Updated Review: ***** $$$ Hundred Tree Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002, Victoria, Australia - BEST VALUE

2012-01-21T18:21:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Hundred Tree Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002, from Victoria, Australia, includes 15% cabernet franc in the mix.

Original review, September, 2008:

In the glass, it is very deep burgundy, almost opaque.

Aroma is a bright, eucalyptic cabernet, reasonably deep, but seeming to be somewhat alcoholic (true alcohol level is 14% - high for cab, but not out of the range for Australia).

The palate does bring an inky sweet black fruit to the fore, chased by a tasty bright edge that crawls up the sides of your mouth.

The finish is long, somewhat charred and still alcoholic.

But interesting overall, and could even use more time than the 6 years already in the bottle. Three stars out of five.
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Updated review, over three years later, now a full decade from vintage date: Very consistent color. Aroma now brings an intriguing old-world pleasant funkiness (barnyard, not oxidation) to the mix. Compelling. Sweet black fruit remains on the palate with a wonderful old-world aromatic overlay. Stunning now. Finish is both bright and deep, sparkling in your cheeks all the way. Five stars. Hundred Tree Hill is now absolutely at its peak, a decade from being grapes on the vine. Teeth-shattering best value. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: More subtle nose. Palate stays consistent. Following even longer decant, four days kept cool in partially filled bottle: This has held incredibly consistent for the long stay in air.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Hundred Tree Hill Cabernet Sauvignon.

Review: *** $$ Backsberg Merlot (Kosher), Paarl, South Africa, 2008

2012-01-21T17:26:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: How many Kosher South African merlots have you tried lately? Well, here, we'll give one a try on your behalf!

Original tasting and review : This is Backsberg Merlot, Paarl, South Africa, 2008, finished at a mere 13.% alcohol.

In the glass: Medium deep red with some brick tones at the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows bright and oddly funky deep red fruit. The funk may blow off with additional air time. From the aroma, seems like this will be high-toned with brambly fruit.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact soft raspberry marshmallow, lightly char-broiled. An easy sip on the palate, bright and fast-finishing. Certainly unique.

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale with a plus for its unique and friendly nature.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Very consistent on the nose and palate. The air does not quite move it to three-star status. Following even longer decant, a total of four days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Soft and easy on the nose. Smoky, soft and lightly acidic palate, now does touch three stars.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Updated Review: ***+ $ Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay, Columbia Valley, WA, Vintages 2006, 2008 - BEST VALUES

2012-01-19T18:56:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The Columbia Crest Grand Estates line is more widely recognized for its red wines, less so for its chardonnay, which also hails from the Columbia Valley in Washington State. The Grand Estates Chardonnay is made on its lees, which is the yeast residue from fermentation. The lees and wine are stirred together regularly, called "batonnage", which creates a rounded mouthfeel in white wines. Let's see how the Columbia Crest Grand Estates Chardonnay fares in a tasting...

2006 VINTAGE, Original Review, March, 2009: Three years from vintage date.

In the glass, the wine is quite transparent, showing just a light honey tint. The nose is bold - almost spectacular, really - with grass and butterscotch and fresh peach.

On the palate, the butterscotch takes over entirely, drawing across your mouth with a motor oil viscosity, leaving off tiny sparkles of fruit as it glides. Very low acids - your cheeks won't even notice a tingle It finishes quite long. gliding slowly to a clean close.

In all, a smooth, mineral-driven ride. Not as intense as I might have hoped, but I would come back to it again - so that's three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale. Outstanding value for the price.

Interestingly, the chardonnay follows the same overall style as the Columbia Crest Grand Estates Merlot, showing a low-intensity, smooth, oily, low-acid experience. It is a touch more distinctive and memorable in the chardonnay.
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Updated Review, a year and a half later, August, 2010, now four years from vintage date: Deeper golden color now. Still a striking nose: hay, butterscotch and stainless steel. Shows the same, mineral, dry butterscotch, viscous palate. I'll add a plus to the three stars now for it's age-worthiness and its beguiling nose. Even a stronger "best value".

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----------------------

2008 VINTAGE, Original Review, January, 2012: This is being tasted from bottle four years from vintage date.

In the glass, the wine is light yellow and vanilla.

The nose is quite consistent with the earlier vintage - bright butterscotch and peach.

On the palate, sweet and sleek gliding. Solid and flowing brings mineral and oak. Clean, easy, light acid style. Very becoming and tasty. Despite the apparent sweetness on the palate, the finish comes on crisp and clean.

Remains three stars with a plus for friendliness.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: More hay and less fruit on the nose. No change to the palate.

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Review: **** $$$ Truchard Syrah, Carneros, Napa, California, 2007

2012-01-17T21:23:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Truchard Vineyards operate almost 300 acres planted in the upper Carneros region of Napa. Today we will be trying a Truchard syrah with approximately five years of age.

Original tasting and review : This is Truchard Syrah, Carneros, Napa, California, 2007, finished at 14.3% alcohol.

In the glass: Shows as deep black magenta, opaque from about a quarter inch in from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deep, bulbous fragrant black fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be deep, dark and lengthy.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact deep and fragrant dark black cherries on the mid-palate, surrounded by dense sweet tannins and spicy, lifting acids. Chewy, bright and deep - all bundled together. Not showing the slightest hint of having hit its peak with age either.

In summary: Overall, multi-dimensional experience rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, two full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: The fragrancy of the nose is getting janglier. It's pretty wild. Spices really come through on the palate now in a nicely balanced and exciting package.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Truchard Syrah.

Updated Review: ***+ $ 2 Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva, Colchagua Valley, Chile, 2005 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-17T19:47:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The 2 Brothers Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva hails from the Colchagua Valley, Chile. The 2005 vintage is finished at 13.9% alcohol. The two brothers named by the label are Alex and Erik, who created Big Tatoo Wines in honor of their mother, Liliana Bartholomaus.

Original review, January, 2010:

In the glass: The 2 Brothers Cabernet shows as medium deep dusty red in the glass, opaque in the center.

On the nose: Poured cool without a decant and swirled vigorously, this cabernet sauvignon shows a bold, varietal-driven nose. There are bright red cabernet fruits, some sweet broccoli and fir trees.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a center-mouth sweet blackberry and fir-tree punch, thick and svelte. With sleek tannins driving a mineral impression, the experience moves out across your tongue and to your cheeks. There it lodges with acids and alcohol coming in at the finish, lifting the deep fruit and spices aloft.

And the finish: Lingering fragrance from the evergreens accompanies the drying tannins to a long finish.

In summary: Overall, exciting, potent, yet balanced experience, combining dark depth with bright fragrances. This generates three stars stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its multi-dimensional nature. Awesome value.

Wine Spectator awarded 88 points, with this report: "Surprisingly minty up front (for Colchagua), along with more typical juicy red and blackberry fruit and a nice briary finish that pulls it all together. Drink now. 6,000 cases made."

Following four-day decant under vacuum in partial bottle: On the nose, the aroma definitely comes forward, leaving the classical cabernet fruit in the background. Palate and finish are very consistent with the thick, fir-tree-driven description above.
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Updated review, two years later, January, 2012: Wow. Precisely the same color and nose after two years. The palate also shows a vibrant consistency, weaving together all of the impressions from before: mint, depth, fruit, darkness, minerality. Really, remains an incredible value.

Following long decant, two full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Fermented fir trees on the nose. Still vibrant and brightly dark and minty on the palate. Remarkable after the 7 years of bottle age and two more days of air.

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Updated Review: ***+ $ Decker Merlot, 2003, Napa, CA - BEST VALUE

2012-01-15T16:08:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Decker Estates Cellars Merlot from Napa, CA, shows a robust 14.4% alcohol. Grapes are selected from various parcels in the region.

Original review, May, 2009:

In the glass, Decker Merlot, 2003, is medium dark red, bricking to about a half inch from the edge.

Aromas are of classic, new world merlot fruit, fairly bold, yet quite clean and plummy despite six years in the bottle.

A thick, full experience on the palate in your first sip - with settled inky, black currant coating your mouth, wrapped in softened but healthy tannins. The finish tells its age, but does provide a lengthy exit.

Three stars because I'd return to the wine, with a plus for its intensity. Awesome value.
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Updated review, over two and a half years later, January, 2012: Consistent color. Aromas show a bit of funk now, nine years from vintage date. Also a touch of broccoli in the persistent and generally sound palate - so Decker Merlot has just passed its prime. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Interestingly, a little less funk on the nose and palate. More tannins come through.

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Review: **** $$$$ Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California, 2005

2012-01-15T16:05:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is selected from best Alexander Valley lots of the much larger Simi labeling. We sampled a prior straight labeled Simi cabernet sauvignon from an earlier vintage here and liked it a great deal. Let's see what the reserve holds.

Original tasting and review : This is Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley, Sonoma, California, 2005, finished at 14.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep purple magenta, opaque from about a half inch in from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows classic, deep plum and black currant. From the aroma, seems like this will be bold, big and tannic.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact quite restrained, with only modest fruit and a first-noted element of puffy, rich tannins. Black currants and blackberry flavors curl out of your cheeks as the sip matures and releases its structural grasp on your taste buds. The finish also slowly unfolds to a perky acidic flare, surrounded by slowly releasing drips of fruit. We will need to try this one with a bit of air time!

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale for its clear structure and classy restraint, with a plus for its definite promise with more age or decant time.

Following three-hour decant: Sweet and plumy nose. With the extra time, the palate has migrated to sweet and fragrant red berries. The tannins still tuck much of the fruit into your cheeks. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: More compelling structured purple nose. Fluffy red berries are now emerging on the palate, with solid tannins still corseting them in. Hidden acids tuck the fruit into your cheeks for a long finish. Moves to four stars and looks interesting even for a bit longer decant. Even longer decant, another day: Consistent nose. Tannins are a bit rougher and tangier now, battling with the fruit. Even longer decant, now four days from opening: Nose is yummy, structured purple fruit with some softening hay. Balanced red berries on the palate with noticeable tannins and solid acids.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Review: *** $ JT Cellars Petite Sirah, Lodi, California, 2006 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-13T21:54:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Lodi, California, creates some classic big, soft red wines. Total we will be sampling a moderately-aged Lodi-based petite sirah.

Original tasting and review : This is JT Cellars Petite Sirah, Lodi, California, 2006, finished at 13.9% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep, almost black red, opaque from about a half inch in from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deep purple ink. From the aroma, seems like this will be thick and perhaps tannic.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact full, soft and plush on the mid-palate, with purple plumy ink aspects. The sip progresses towards a balance of acid and fruit and finishes quite clean.

In summary: Overall, bold, rich and bright experience rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, rating a "best value" at its bargain price point.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Softer, funky ink on the nose, and the palate remains plush, but moving towards lightly oxidized.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Review: ***+ $ Columbia Crest Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington State, 2009 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-12T23:24:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: The Two Vines label is Columbia Crest's bargain-priced entries into Washington state varietals. Our past review of Two Vines Merlot Cabernet blend showed an incredible value at its price point. Today we are sampling the purebred cabernet sauvignon.

Original tasting and review : This is Columbia Crest Two Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington State, 2009, finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep purple magenta, not quite opaque in the center.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deep, soft, sweetly oaked fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be fragrant on the palate, soft and pleasing.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact a full, soft and layered palate, with oak-driven fruit that brings ripe plums, black cherry and sweet blackberry. A hint of cinnamon comes along as the modest finish begins to build. Ends on a clear, just lightly acidic note - acidic enough merely to wash away the sweetness of the palate and finish entirely clear.

In summary: Overall, lovely experience rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a big plus for its clean and friendly integration. No brainer best value!

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: More oaky plums on the nose. The palate is even sweeter and oakier, still carrying the spices and fruit. Held up very nicely.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Review: *** $ Wyatt Pinot Noir, California, 2009 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-11T23:56:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Wyatt collects grapes for its basic "California" appelation vineyards from unspecified vineyards around the state. Wyatt Cabernet Sauvignon was a "best value" when we reviewed it here awhile ago. Today we'll try the pinot noir - a notoriously difficult wine in which to find a bargain.

Original tasting and review : This is Wyatt Pinot Noir, California, 2009, finished at 13.9% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep red with violet overtones. Beefy looking for pinot noir.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows potent blackberry with some raspberry and strawberry overtones. From the aroma, seems like this will be pleasantly fruity, though perhaps simple.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact friendly in the mid-palate, bringing a touch of oak along with the solid fruit. Clean acids bring the fruit to a modest, pleasing finish.

In summary: Overall, friendly and varietally-appropriate experience rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, making this a best value when acquired at attractive pricing - a real surprise for a pinot noir.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Deeper and more interesting layers on the nose. Remains balanced and friendly on the palate.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Review: *** $ Finca La Linda Tempranillo, 2007, Mendoza, Argentina - BEST VALUE

2012-01-11T18:50:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: This is another selection from the Luigi Bosca estates, founded in 1901. Finca La Linda is 100% tempranillo, coming in at 14.1% alcohol, aged in American oak for six months.

Original review, August, 2009:

In the glass, La Linda Tempranillo is bright but deep ruby red, with purple at the edges. This is still a young bottling. Bold aromas carry a bit of charcoal dust, new rubber balloon and blackberry.

On the palate, a full, red, very ripe plum taste hits the middle of your mouth - quite rich and smooth in style. Few acids, but a bit of tannin comes on after a few moments, dripping the slightly-sweet, slightly-oak fruit into the crevices around your teeth. Finish is layered, full, rich and slightly sweet. A full three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, making this a best value at its modest price.
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Updated review, two and a half years later, January, 2012: Deep magenta, opaque about a half inch from the edge. Fresh blackberry and blueberry on the nose. Full rich mid-palate fruit, bringing a sense of the old world. Both furry and fresh on the finish. This has held up exceptionally well, now five years from its vintage date. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: A touch more oily on the nose. The palate nicely knits together. In the mid-red class, this is very serious juice for its price.

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Review: *** $$ Altos de Luzon, Jumilla, Spain, 2005 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-10T23:01:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Jumilla is almost the "comfort food" region of Spain - producing lovely, accessible monastrell and tempranillo red wines that are typically soft and luxuriant, although capable of sitting in the cellar for some time. Today, we are sampling a Jumilla blend of Monastrell (mourvedre), cabernet sauvignon and tempranillo from the mountains of Jumilla. This one has cellar aged until its current opening seven years from vintage date. I reviewed a slightly lower-priced wine from the same region here, back in 2009.

Original tasting and review : This is Altos de Luzon, Jumilla, Spain, 2005, finished at 14.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep magenta, opaque from about a half inch in from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deeply fruited walnuts and black cherry ink. From the aroma, seems like this will be bold, deep and substantial.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact rich, full and well-aged red fruits on the palate, feeling like these fruits are just at the peak of their ripeness. Just enough tannins surrounding the core to provide a furry coating and a moderately lengthy finish.

In summary: Overall, husky, balanced red rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Consistent nose although somewhat more shy. Still solid red fruits on the palate with bounteous surrounding tannins.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Review: **** $$$ Mollydooker The Scooter Merlot, South Australia, 2006

2012-01-09T20:22:00.002-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Anyone reading this site knows that I (jorray) am an unabashed fan of the Mollydooker line. That puts me admittedly on one end of the distribution, but so it is. The big, fat, beefy, alcoholic Aussie's have held my fascination for a long time. Their aromas beckon and the layers deliver on the palate. The Mookdooker merlot, called "Scooter", has not been one of the stand-outs of the line. I did a quick live review of Scooter 2006 back in 2007, but here I am giving it a dedicated and updated look.

Original tasting and review : This is Mollydooker The Scooter Merlot, South Australia, 2006, finished at 15.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep magenta, just moving to opaque in the center.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows rich and beefy blue fruit, with plums and blueberries and a touch of earth. From the aroma, seems like this will be deep and long-lived in the mouth.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact bold red notes of fresh, sweet currants - interestingly lighter on its feet than the shiraz-based Mollydookers. Nicely balanced and toned. Simple layers and clean finish.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for pleasing boldness.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: On the nose, the fruit is sweeter and fleshier. Sweet strawberries join the rounder palate. Lifts to four stars with the additional air.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Mollydooker Scooter Merlot.

Review: ***+ $$ Kelley Creek Merlot, Winemaker's Reserve, 2005, Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, CA

2012-01-08T19:17:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Kelley Creek Merlot, Winemaker's Reserve, 2005, is from the Schneider Vineyard of Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma, CA. The Kelley Creek line, in fact, was created from an abundant harvest in 2005, which resulted in grapes becoming available from the vineyards of Sonoma County grape growers, Barbara and Dick Schneider. Kelley Creek is a tributary that runs through the Schneider's property in Western Dry Creek Valley into Dry Creek.

Original Review, June, 2009:

In the glass, Kelley Creek Merlot, Winemaker's Reserve, shows as medium dusty red. Aromas are modest and of deep fruit - a bit of alcohol "twang", showing the 14.6 percent alcohol level.

Your first sip is even and balanced - almost regal in its conservative yet lively nature. There is a solid, fur-encrusted dark cherry flavor, perhaps a touch of cocoa. It resolves to a lengthy, quite pure, mellow finish with a touch of sweet acid. Not much tannin grit, but a solid, full-bodied offering.

Not quite the power to wow me with four stars, but I will add a plus to its three stars for its true class.
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Updated review, about two and a half years later, January, 2012: Consistent medium red color. Soft fruit, hints of vegetable stew and licorice indicating age. Touch of broccoli now on the palate too, surrounding the abundant fruit. Don't store this one any longer.

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Review: **+ $$ Sharpshooter Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California, 2006

2012-01-07T20:07:00.000-05:00

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Original tasting and review : This is Sharpshooter Pinot Noir, Central Coast, California, 2006, finished at 13.6% alcohol.

In the glass: Medium red with brick at the very edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows light, classic pinot aromas. From the aroma, seems like this will be gentle, bright and floral.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact easy and quick on the palate. Simple friendly raspberry fruit glances gently off your tongue and races to a quick but clean finish.

In summary: Overall, simple yet friendly pinot noir experience rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a big plus for its undeniably friendly character.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Consistent aromas. Palate gains a touch of needed heft, remaining quite friendly.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Central Coast Pinot Noir.

Review: *** $$$ Bouchaine Rockin' H Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA, 2007

2012-01-07T18:19:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Sonoma and Pinot Noir are a natural pairing. Today we will be sampling a second pinot noir from the Bouchaine line, this one from Sonoma's Rockin' H Vineyard, versus the more widely-available Bouchaine bottling from Carneros region. Bouchaine has also produced a highly-rated syrah from Rockin' H Vineyard.

Original tasting and review : This is Bouchaine Rockin' H Vineyard Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA, 2007 , finished at 14.5% alcohol. This limited bottling is designated as part of the "Bacchus Collection".

In the glass: Dark magenta moving opaque from about an inch from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deep full oaken fruit, with underlying earthy funk. From the aroma, seems like this will be big and bold, California and fruity in its style.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact balanced and even slightly austere in style on the palate, showing bright, dry but deep raspberry. Clean acids bring the dark bright fruit up your cheeks, nearly to your eye-sockets, tucking it there for a lengthy finish that slowly drips sparkles of blackberry down your cheeks.

In summary: Overall, serious and balanced experience rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Nice additional aromatics lifting into the nose. Similar elements of oaked plum make it into the palate as well, enlivening the structured base

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Bouchaine Pinot Noir.

Review: ***+ $$ d'Arenberg McLaren Vale d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache, Australia, 2004 - GOOD VALUE

2012-01-05T19:10:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The d'Arenberg McLaren Vale d'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache is a half/half shiraz/grenache blend from d'Arenberg's old, low-yielding vineyards in McLaren Vale, Australia. The wine, coming in at 14.5% alcohol, spent 18 months in oak maturation before bottling.

Original review, January, 2010:

In the glass: This 'Arry's Original Shiraz Grenache shows as very dark burgundy in the glass, opaque to within a half inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool without a decant and swirled vigorously, this blend has a potent nose of dark violets, red fruit, a touch of oak, and slight notes of helium (which will blow off with air).

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a bright, tangy and gritty red fruit, right smack up in the roof of your mouth. Acids and tannins together then clamp down on your tongue and cheeks, holding them hostage while a sprinkling of red fruit is allowed to escape.

And the finish: For the finish, the acids hold sway in your cheeks, finishing clean with a red fruit cast.

In summary: Overall, bright, tangy, red fruit experience, yielding two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. Not the charm I experienced in the shiraz-only d'Arenberg Love Grass.

Robert Parker was a much bigger fan of this than I, awarding 91 points, with this note: "One of my consistent favorites from d'Arenberg is their d'Arry's Original, and the terrific 2004 is a super value. A dark ruby/purple color is accompanied by beautiful blackberry, cassis, cherry, and licorice scents with hints of Provencal herbs and pepper in the background. This medium to full-bodied, front end-loaded blend of Shiraz and Grenache possesses considerable fruit, body, and silky tannins as well as enough acidity to provide definition. Drink it over the next 3-4 years."

Following a three-day decant by vacuum in partial bottle: Helium is gone on the aromas, but the other aromas are muted too. On the palate, the gritty tannins are gone, but the red fruits and acids are still there. Seemed a bit stronger fresh from the bottle.
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Updated review, over about two years later, January, 2012: Consistent color. Nose is more muted, cool, with no helium. The palate is an explosion of sparkling red fruits, now sweet, savory and peppery in turn. A bright and extended finish. This has held up exceptionally well to the time in bottle, shows absolutely no sluggishness despite being 8 years old. It touches three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale and scores a plus for its red fruited vivacity. Good value. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Completely unchanged in nose and palate. Holds up EXTREMELY well to age and air.

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Review: *** $$ Palomo Peak Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, Chile, 1997 AND 1999

2012-01-05T06:00:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Chile is quite noted today for its red varietal wines, especially cabernet sauvignon, merlot and malbec. How about 15 years ago? This cabernet sauvignon hails from 1997, 15 years ago.

Original tasting and review : This is Palomo Peak Reserva Privada Cabernet Sauvignon, Rapel Valley, Chile, 1997, finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep mahogany with only the slightest hint of dark new brick at the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows faded, somewhat vegetable-tinged fruit, but with an encouraging hint of plum too. From the aroma, seems like this may be tired and generic - with luck though, it will have some lift.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact quite layered, complex and balanced, with deep earthy blackberries surrounded by softer tannins and acids that still hold together. Finish is brief but clean.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.
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Updated review, same day: OK, I couldn't resist. Same wine, same maker, same varietal, same label, except two years younger - a 1999 vintage - only a mere 13 years from vintage date. Consistent color. The nose shows even more vegetable elements along with the earthy fruit. I get a sandy broccoli. The sandiness is bright and unique however, like fresh beach sand. On the palate, the fruits move more rapidly to the roof of your mouth, bringing friendly acids and balance. Don't mistake - the age is there as well, with its more generic tones. But the acids tuck this 1999 vintage into your cheeks, allowing a lengthier finish. Solid three stars as well.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Rapel Valley, Chile, cabernet sauvignon.

Updated Review: ** $ Rhone Rebel Cotes du Ventoux, France

2012-01-04T21:21:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The Rhone Rebel Cotes du Ventoux is a budget-priced red rhone wine, produced in France and finished at 13.5% alcohol. The 2005 version is five years from vintage date, and was finished at 13.5% alcohol.

Original Review, January, 2010:

In the glass: Rhone Rebel shows as medium deep red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured without a decant and swirled vigorously, this red rhone offers a light, bright raspberry aroma.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a bright red currant mid palate flavor, followed by sour cherry in your cheeks.

And the finish: The raspberries fade in your cheeks, held on by light acids.

In summary: Overall, a light but pleasant experience. Rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following a two-day decant by vacuum in a partially-opened bottle, the Rhone Rebel shows a consistent nose, but a deeper palate buttressed by just-ripe plums. Could almost - but not quite - win a plus for its growing weight.
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Updated review, about two years later, January, 2012: Still medium deep red, showing some brick edges. Aromas are of deep, funky red fruit. May have passed its prime. Still brings red currants to your palate and cheeks, without much sour cherry. Clean finish, but not distinctive.

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Updated Review: **** $$ Cameron Hughes Lot 161 Meritage, Sonoma, CA, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-02T17:35:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: This is Cameron Hughes Lot 161 Meritage from Sonoma, CA. Cameron Hughes is a negociant, and has put this red blend together from 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot . The 2007 vintage is finished at 15.3% alcohol.

Original Tasting and Review: August, 2010:

In the glass: Deep burgundy, moving towards opaque in the middle.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this shows a spicy and alcoholic nose with deep red fruits.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are solid, husky, deeply-toned blackberries. Solid tannins and bright acids backing the black fruit.

In summary: Overall, three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. Solid, and seems to have more promise with decant or further age.

Following long decant, two days kept cool in partially-filled bottle: Inky plum with the spices on the nose. The blackberries are richer and darker, bringing a smooth tone to the experience.
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Updated review, about a year and a half later, January, 2012: Consistent color. The nose is bolder now, not only with deep red fruits, but distinct menthol and eucalyptus overtones, along with some solid oak. Bright, sweet and fun red fruits are packing a playground of fun on the palate. They bring bold, bright currants along with deep-hearted blackberry, all still with a somewhat gruff tannic surround. Playful and still aging well. This jumps a full star with additional time in bottle to touch four stars and become a Spirit of Wine "best value".

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Updated Review: **** $$ Cameron Hughes Lot 157 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville, Napa, CA, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-02T17:18:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: This is Cameron Hughes Lot 157 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yountville, Napa, CA, 2007, finished at 14.9% alcohol. Cameron Hughes is a negociant, purchasing available grapes and finished wine in an attempt to bring high value close outs to customers, typically without full disclosure of the vineyards from which the vines have originated. In this case, the Yountville, Napa, offering comprises 94% cabernet sauvignon and 6% syrah.

Original Tasting and Review: August, 2011:

In the glass: CH Lot 157 is deep, velvet, ruby red in the glass, with elements of brick and purple at the edge. The brick highlight is unusual in a young cabernet.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Napa cab shows a fresh, mineral, lifted-red currant fruit, carried up by the strong alcohol level, but bringing a nice bright clarity, like fresh-washed laundry.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are red fruit wrapped in a dusty, tannin-laced robe. It is primary and youthful with its tangy fruit, which will settle considerably with age or longer decant. But even now, the balance is solid. Finish shows a touch of charcoal and lingers a long time on waves of alcohol and fruit.

In summary: Overall, a solid, balanced and bold offering. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus on top of the three stars, because of the anticipated mellowing with time. Good value.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially-filled bottle: The aroma is consistent, now missing the fresh laundry overtones. On the palate, the tannins have settled to a sweeter, creamier overall feel, more balanced than before. Still three stars plus, this time the plus is not for its promise, but for its proven, balanced power.
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Updated review, about a year and a half later, January, 2012: Consistent color, with the purple highlights having faded. Aromas are consistent and still quite fresh. Powerful, perfumed and potent on the palate, offering a balanced and intense Napa new-world experience. Touches four stars and becomes a best value. The overall impression now at five years from vintage date is one of red fruit, potent tannins and excellent balance.

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Updated Review: *** $ Delas Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone Rouge, France, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-02T16:32:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The Delas Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone Rouge is made from a blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre and carignan grapes, which come from a small village in the Ardeche region of the Cotes du Rhone, France. The 2007 vintage is finished at 13.5% alcohol.

Original Review: February, 2010:

In the glass: Delas Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone shows as deep purple burgundy in the glass, opaque to within an inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Cotes du Rhone offers deep, bold fresh aromas of just squeezed blackberries and red and black currants.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a peppery red fruit smack in the middle of your tongue. This opens into more pepper sliding along your tongue to your cheeks on waves of a bright red and purple fruit.

And the finish: The finish begins with bright pepper acids in your cheeks, ejecting additional red fruit.

In summary: Overall, a brighter experience in the palate than the nose would have suggested. Rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus because it has the stuffing to mellow down to a better balance with age or air.

The Wine Advocate awarded 90 points to this Cotes du Rhone, with this commentary: "This great northern Rhone negociant, spearheaded by their brilliant oenologist and winemaker, Jacques Grange, has consistently made fabulous wines from the northern appellations, but only recently upgraded the quality of their southern Rhone selections. These are the finest southern Rhones they make, and their Cotes du Rhone St.-Esprit ranks alongside the offerings from Guigal and Chapoutier."

Following a four-day decant under vacuum in a partially-filled bottle: The aroma is solid and has grown even meatier. Still all pepper and redness in the middle. Slightly better balance overall. Still intensely "bright".

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Updated review, almost two years later, January, 2012: Consistent color. The nose has grown old-worldish and almost vegetable in nature, with mush blackberries as a key component. And the palate has grown softer and more luxurious too, with languorous fruit being toned just a little bit by the hints of remaining pepper. It does touch three stars now, but not a single additional month should be allowed before this bottle - five years from vintage date - is enjoyed. Best value.

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Review: ***+ $ Protocolo Red Wine, Castilla, Spain, 2006 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-02T13:20:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Today we are trying a bargain-priced tempranillo from Castilla, Spain, selected and bottled by Dominio de Eguren.

Original tasting and review : This is Eguren Protocolo Tempranillo Red Wine, Castilla, Spain, 2006, finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: This well-aged bargain tempranillo still shows as deep ruby red in the glass, no brick edges evident.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, shows deep violet plum tones with some blackberry. From the aroma, seems like this will be hearty and spry.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact solidly furred and toned fruit on the mid-palate - a structured plum and blackberry. Bright highlights curve in around the edges then up to your cheeks.

In summary: Overall, the wine rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, yielding a best value at its remarkably low price point, and showing even-more-remarkable stamina at six years from vintage date.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Very consistent nose and palate. This picked up even more aromatics on the palate, generating a plus for its pleasant balance. Great value.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Protocolo.

Review: **** $ Mionetto Il Moscato delle Venezie, Veneto, Italy, Non-Vintage - BEST VALUE

2012-01-01T23:05:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Moscato can be a most pleasant sparkling wine for festive occasions. Why not New Year's?!

Original tasting and review : This is Mionetto Il Moscato delle Venezie, Veneto, Italy, Non-Vintage, finished at 7.% alcohol.

In the glass: Clear to light vanilla, with solid bubbles.

On the nose: Poured quite cool, shows light sweet grass.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact perky grass and light lemon grass, blending into a sweet and clean finish.

In summary: Overall, rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, generating a best value in the sparkling wine category.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Updated Review: **** $$ Ironstone Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi, California, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-01T17:35:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Ironstone Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi, California, is a blend of 95% zinfandel with 5% petite sirah, aged for 2007 for 10 months in small oak barrels, and finished at 14.5% alcohol.

Original Tasting and Review: February, 2010:

In the glass: Ironstone Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel shows as medium deep burgundy in the glass, opaque to within 3/4 inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Lodi zinfandel brings a medium, deep black cherry nose to the fore, mixed with just a hint of candy.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a full, round, well-knitted, back-of-palate deep cherry fruit. Leads you to contemplate the various elements, as no one element seems to take center stage: ripe red cherry, ripe plum, hint of chocolate, touch of oak, hint of candy cane minus the peppermint. A certain minerality too.

And the wrap-up: The finish is clean and flavorful, poised between solid black cherry flavors and modest tannins and acids.

In summary: Overall, a balanced, and yet full-on experience. Red fruit with hints of dark overtones. Just touches four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a nod to its power and complexity. May move more solidly into four star territory with a bit of air or age too. Great value.

Wine Enthusiast awarded 88 points, saying, "Lusty and ripe, this big, exuberant Zinfandel brims with black currant, red cherry, plum, chocolate, anise and cedar flavors, leading to a long, spicy finish. It’s an easy wine to drink, but also shows some real complexity.

Following two-day decant under vacuum in partially-filled bottle: Similar nose, now slightly more red cherry candy than black cherry candy. On the palate, got a bit sweeter and rounder, but lost some of its more intriguing notes. I'd say enjoy now, and straight from the bottle.
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Updated review, almost two years later, January, 2012: Still deep burgundy in the glass, now a hint of brick at the edge. Deeper cherry candy on the nose. Deep red cherry remains the primary palate element, surrounded by nice deep layered tones of weathered fruit. Solid and still well-knit, but misses some of the luxurious tensions that seemed to define this as a younger wine. Note to self: recommend drinking solid Lodi zins within three years of vintage date.

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Updated Review: **** $$ Atalaya Red Blend, Almansa, Spain, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2012-01-01T13:56:00.000-05:00

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Original Review:

By way of background: The Atalaya, 2007, is a newly-released red wine hailing from the Almansa region of Spain, sporting an impressive 91 rating from Wine Advocate for this inaugural vintage. It is a blend of monastrell, garnacha tintorera and other red grapes, aged for eight months in a combination of French and American oak, and finished at 14% alcohol.

In the glass: Atalaya shows as deep purple/magenta in the glass, opaque to within an inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool without a decant and swirled vigorously, this Spanish red blend pushes deep, dark mahogany, leather-imbued fruit aromas into the room. New world deep plum fruit plus old world dirt and depth.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a bright but sandy red currant fruit right smack in the middle of the tongue. This opens into a wider array of red cherry and plum throughout your mouth, carried along by bright acids as much as by evident background tannins.

And the finish: Lengthy, and lodged mostly in your cheeks, with red fruits and acid, though backed by a veil of still-young tannins, offering a hint of cocoa at the close.

In summary: Overall, intriguing aromatic start, and less compelling - though certainly pleasant - new world middle and finish. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus because the solid tannins mean I would like to see this with a bit more age and/or decant. Good value.

I mentioned Wine Advocate's generous 91-point rating. Jay Miller wrote, "This purple-colored wine has an expressive bouquet of violets, spice box, leather, game, blueberry, and black cherry. On the palate it comes off as borderline kinky and definitely sexy with lots of easy-going flavor, superb depth, complexity, and a 45-second finish. Although it can be enjoyed now, it will evolve for another 2-3 years."

Following a two-day decant by vacuum in a partially-opened bottle, the Atalaya's nose has grown muted, but the acids on the palate have knit nicely with the red fruits. The cocoa-coated red fruit now explodes in your mouth.
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Updated review, over a year later, two years later, January, 2012: Still deep purple and magenta in the glass. Consistent deep, leathery and fruity nose. Plum blends with black cherry in a rich, robust palate, all nicely structured and knit together. This rates an easy four stars today, and is perfectly ready to drink at five years from vintage date. Achieves best value status with the additional bottle aging. Following long decant, full day kept at room temperature in decanter: Consistent nose and palate. Smooth black cherry on the palate.

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Updated Review: ***** $$$ 2005 Mollydooker Shiraz The Boxer Australia - BEST VALUE

2011-12-30T23:11:00.000-05:00

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Original Review, October, 2006: Floating on a cloud to wine nirvana... The aroma strikes you as one of pure, bright, yet slightly creamy, grapes. But as you sip, the transport into velvety wonder ratchets up. There, the oak and depth come through, still wrapped in bright, peppery creaminess. And it lasts. Welcome home, Sarah and Sparky. You've arrived. Marquis Philips portfolio were your training wheels.

Check out our review of 2006 The Boxer too.

Or check out our visit to Mollydooker winery.
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Updated review, over five years later, December, 2011: The color is opaque from a quarter inch of the black magenta edge. Aromas are still deep, creamy grapes. The palate carries all of the depth, sleekness and brightness from a half-decade ago. Nice spices and chocolate lead to the finish. Awesome, crazy best value.

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Updated review: ***+ $ Mazzone Immensus Malvasia, 2007, Puglia, Italy - BEST VALUE

2011-12-30T22:38:00.000-05:00

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Background: Mazzone Immensus from the Puglia, Italy, area, is made of 100% malvasia grapes. The white wine finishes at 13% alcohol - certainly robust for a white. The bottle is sleek and lean - let's see if the wine follows suit...

Original review, September, 2009:

In the glass, Immensus, vintage 2007, is light golden yellow. Aromas are both citrus and light cream - think peach-cicle.

On the palate, the rich, minerally, oil-slick middle is actually the first note. It follows on with a light coating of slightly sweet, tangy fruit on the sides of your mouth - think unsweetened pineapple perhaps. Light touch of lemon on the modest finish.

Three stars on the Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its lush minerality. Awesome value. I actually think it could age for a couple years, playing off its minerals and acids.

In style and weight, think about this in the line of the viognier/marsanne from d'Arenberg Hermit Crab or Mollydooker's verdelho-based Violinist.
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Updated review, over two years later, December, 2011: Color and aromas are mostly consistent, with a hint of butterscotch coming into the nose. Wow. Two years has not changed the experience much. Remarkable stamina.

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Updated review: ***+ $ Torremoron Tempranillo, Ribera del Duero, Spain, 2006 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-30T18:42:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The Torremoron Tempranillo from Ribera del Duero, Spain, is made from grapes harvested from 500 acres of old tempranillo vines. Hot days and cold nights characterize the growing climate, which consists of limestone and sandy soils. For 2006, the wine was finished unoaked at 13% alcohol. It is being sampled four years from vintage date.

Original Review: January, 2010:

In the glass: Torremoron Tempranillo shows as deep mahogany red in the glass, almost opaque in the middle.

On the nose: Poured cool without a decant and swirled vigorously, this Ribera del Duero sports a solid, plum-scented, perfumed nose.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a light, sweet, delicate rose and raspberry flavor. That moves lightly and evenly across your palate, bringing almost a violet fragrance to the roof of your mouth.

And the finish: Sleek tannins cause Torremoron to settle smoothly and lightly across your cheeks.

In summary: Overall, a compelling, fragrant, light-bodied and still complex and sleek experience. Consider using whenever pinot noir seems close, but not quite right. I would definitely seek this out again. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its awesome aromatics and gentle strengths. Could move to four stars with a bit of air. Fantastic value.

Stephen Tanzer awarded 88 points, writing, "Ruby-red. Fresh raspberry and candied cherry on the nose, with good peppery and floral lift. Tangy red berry flavors are finely etched and pure, with gentle tannins adding support. The deep finish leaves behind an exotic floral pastille quality. Wonderfully complex for the price."

Robert Parker of Wine Advocate went a step higher, to 90 points, writing, “…100% Tempranillo from 60- to 90-year-old vines…terrific perfume of wild berries including raspberry, strawberry, and cherry…youthful, very concentrated and structured. The finish is long and fruity…an outstanding value.”

Following a two-day decant under vacuum in a partially-opened bottle: Both nose and palate held solid under this brief aging. Not enough improvement to move to four stars, but remains very strong value.
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Updated review, almost two years later, December, 2011: Color remains deep, opaque magenta. The plum perfume has added a touch of funk on the nose. On the palate, a mid-weight, red-fruited soft berry wash replaces the lighter perfumed touch from two years ago. This is a nicely balanced middle red experience, with red berries contrasting with still-apparent tannins and modest acids in a fulsome and friendly mid-palate. Clean finish.

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Updated Review: **** $$$ Pessagno Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, Monterey County, CA, 2007

2011-12-30T18:20:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: Pessagno makes quite a wide range of pinot noirs. This one is the Pessagno Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir, estate grown in the Lucia Highlands Vineyard in the Monterey County AVA in California. For the 2007 vintage, it is finished at 14.6% alcohol, within the range of many California pinot noirs.

Original tasting notes, January, 2010:

In the glass: Pessagno Santa Lucia Pinot Noir shows as deep dusty red in the glass, moving to almost opaque in the center, somewhat surprising for pinot noir.

On the nose: Poured cool without a decant and swirled vigorously, the wine throws a big, deep, sweet, inky aroma of candied black cherry.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a thick, almost oily, but also smooth, gritty tannin-driven fruit that washes across your tongue. It follows by slowly releasing big gobs of fruit flavors into your mouth and cheeks. These include fully ripe, sweet blackberries, but some semi-sweet cocoa and cherries too. Much to inspect and contemplate.

And the finish: Through the smooth, strong tannins, new waves of flavor follow the sip into the horizon... solid earthy fruits, some oak dust, very gentle acids. Yum.

In summary: Overall, deep, rich, balanced, layered, complex and thoroughly enjoyable experience. Four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. I believe this has the stuffing for even more balance and complexity with age - not that it lacks much now. Awesome showing for an American pinot noir, and my favorite pinot noir in a long time. Excellent value at a moderate price point; unusual because pinot noirs seldom hit the Spirit of Wine good value lists.

Wine Enthusiast was indeed enthusiastic about this as well, awarding 94 points, with this report: "It's hard to believe the price on this wonderful Pinot Noir. It's such a beauty. Ripe, rich and opulent, it shows powerful flavors of cherries, raspberries, red currants, anise, cocoa and sandalwood, yet remains elegant and delicate through the long, spicy finish. Just terrific. Scoop this one up while you can."

Following three-day decant by vacuum in partially-opened bottle: Consistent aroma, palate, finish and rating.
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Updated review, two years later, December, 2011: Consistent color. Thick black cherry remains on the nose, with some motor oil undertones. The viscous oils and deep fruits still wash across your tongue as you sip, with the acids just tickling the points of your tongue. Not improved over two years ago, but not diminished either. Ready to drink now at four years from vintage date.

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Updated Review: **** $ Cameron Hughes Lot 64 California Red Wine, 2005 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-30T17:01:00.000-05:00

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By way of background: The Cameron Hughes Lot 64 California Red Wine is from 70% St. Helena, 30% Lake County, California grapes; specifically, a wild combination of: 30% Tempranillo, 29% Carignan, 20% Grenache, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petite Verdot. It is finished at a whopping 15% alcohol.

Original Review: February, 2010:

In the glass: Cameron Hughes Lot 64 shows as deep magenta in the glass, opaque to within an inch of the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool without a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this red blend offers bold, rich, classic 20th Century sweet oaked cabernet aromas.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a smooth, rich, balanced, almost warm, rug-like coating across your tongue and palate. Full, rich, deep, balanced fruit; smooth tannins bring flavors along with just enough lift to reach the roof of your mouth. Deep black currant and blackberry as key notes.

And the finish: Even, long, leisurely.

In summary: Overall, a rich and ready experience, right from the bottle. Rates a full four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. This is an awesome value.

Following a four-day decant under vacuum in a partial bottle: Still very consistent in aroma and palate; it has picked up a bit lighter red overtone overall. Suggest drinking it right upon initial opening.
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Updated review, almost two years later, December, 2011: Still deep magenta in the glass, opaque in the center, now with hints of brick at the edge. Sweet and ripe - almost over-ripe - classic cabernet aromas. Extremely consistent palate, bringing lush and flavorful fruit. Holding up extraordinarily well to the time in bottle.

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Updated Review: **+ $$ Sockeye Pinot Noir, Central Valley, Chile, 2008

2011-12-30T16:42:00.000-05:00

Find today's pricing and retail availability for Sockeye Pinot Noir .

By way of background: Sockeye Pinot Noir from Central Valley, Chile, is a Barclay's Wine selection. The 2008 vintage is finished at 13.5% alcohol.

Original Tasting and Review: February, 2010:

In the glass: Sockeye Pinot Noir shows as light red in the glass.

On the nose: Poured with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this pinot noir shows a rich, oaked, raspberry aroma, with significant bright notes.

On the palate: The first element on the palate is a smooth, even mid palate, slightly sweet and lightly fruity. Primary red cherry comes through, wrapped in rugged acids. The acids want some food or time to settle them down.

And the finish: As you might imagine, sits mostly tucked in your cheeks, letting red fruit elements poke through.

In summary: Overall, bright but not distinctive experience. Rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following a two-day decant under vacuum in a partially-filled bottle: The aroma is consistent; the acids have settled, but not much of interest has taken their place, unfortunately.
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Updated review, almost two years later, December, 2011: Still light red in the glass with a bright raspberry aroma, with hints of strawberry too. The acids on the palate have settled out. Flavor elements are pale light cherry. I wouldn't find my way back to the offering, but it does garner a plus on its two stars for pleasantness.

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Updated Review: ***+ $$ Mount Rose Vineyards Pinnacle Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 2008 - GOOD VALUE

2011-12-29T19:03:00.000-05:00

Find prices and retail availability for Clement Hills wine.

Initial review, by way of background, December, 2010: This is Mount Rose Vineyards Pinnacle Cabernet Sauvignon, California, 2008, finished at 13.5% alcohol. This is a mid-quality offering from the Wine Insiders club offering, put together from Clement Hills AVA grapes consisting of 80% cabernet sauvignon, 13% merlot, 5% petite verdot and 2% syrah.

In the glass: Pinnacle Cabernet Sauvignon shows as deep gutsy maroon, moving opaque about an inch in from the side of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this California cab shows inky black cherry, some cocoa and muddy sand on the nose.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a sweet and rich fruit middle, soft black cherries wrapped with lightly sandy tannins. A warm, draping middle, with sweet cherry fruit riding along for a medium length, clean finish.

In summary: Overall, a rich experience, bringing some layers, depth and complexity. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a big plus for its puppy-dog friendliness. Good value at regular club list price.

Following long decant, three days kept cool in partially-filled bottle under vacuum: Still luscious black cherry aroma. Palate holds together fully, still long and warm fruit.

With an extremely long decant, one more day kept cool in partially-filled bottle without vacuum: The nose has faded considerably, although the palate has remained remarkably resilient. Still, this was too long to hold - just an experiment.
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Updated review, over a year later, December, 2011: Consistent color. The nose is a combo of black cherry and sweet red peppers. The sweet, rich fruit middle is still there on the palate, with black cherries and now deep roast red peppers. Still friendly and solid. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: More red peppers on the nose, with light, sweet tobacco. Same two notes on the palate: red peppers and light tobacco. Flavorful, light experience.

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Updated Review: *** $$ Cameron Hughes, Lot 179, Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah, Napa, CA, 2007

2011-12-29T17:02:00.000-05:00

Find prices and retail availability for Cameron Hughes cabernet sauvignon..

Original Tasting and Review, August, 2010:

By way of background: This is Cameron Hughes, Lot 179, Cabernet Sauvignon & Syrah, Napa, CA, 2007, finished at 14.5% alcohol.

In the glass: This shows as medium/dark magenta, opaque about a half inch in from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled, this 50/50 cab/syrah blend shows a charcoal-and-sweet-blackberry on the nose, deep and ruddy, but bold.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a sleek, mid-weight dark red currant, red cherry and ripe plum, all wrapped in a potent alcohol lift. Tannins and potent acids are present, bringing length to the finish, and suggesting that a bit of time will mellow the experience.

In summary: Overall, bright and dark, mostly syrah-esque experience, with some staying power. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, two days kept cool in partially-filled bottle: Aromas and palate are quite consistent, with the palate tone mellowed by just a shade.
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Updated review, almost a year and a half later, December, 2011: Consistent color and nose. Wow. Even the palate is entirely unchanged. Still all brightness and darkness, swirled into one. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Nose is sweeter and tangier. Palate has a distinct brightness now too.

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Tasting notes: Girard Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, CA, 2008

2011-12-29T15:02:00.001-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Girard Winery has had a long history in and around Napa Valley, having once owned the vineyards that are now producing cabernet sauvignon at Rudd. Today we'll be trying the petite sirah, courtesy of Rob - thanks Rob!

Original tasting and review : This is Girard Petite Sirah, Napa Valley, CA, 2008, finished at 14.5% alcohol. It is in fact a blend of 89% petite sirah, 8% zinfandel, 2% mourvedre and 1% grenache.

In the glass: Dark blood red, opaque a half inch from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deep, classic black currant fruit, cassis and some delicious menthol tones. From the aroma, seems like this will be robust, dark, deep and tasty.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact much as anticipated by the nose, with a brighter surround of plumy acids than I might have guessed. Still a deep, flavorful experience, full of bold, dark fruits and solid structure.

In summary: Overall, an intense experience I would chase back to in a heartbeat. It gets a special nod for its pleasurable intensity.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Tasting Notes for Two Italian Wine Finds: Pelissero Nubiola Barbaresco and Icardi Nej Pinot Nero Langhe Rosso

2011-12-28T16:32:00.000-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Two special Italian wines, with grape varieties and regions I am somewhat less-than-familiar with, provided by Eric to accompany a homemade Italian meal this evening. Thanks Eric! The labels from the two wines from two different regions seem to symbolize the coming together of new world and old world in this country - a classic label from Pelissero and an abstract new-age label from Icardi. Both, interestingly enough, are finished at comparable 14% alcohol levels.

Original tasting and review : This is Pelissero Nubiola, Barbaresco, Italy, 2007.

In the glass: Deep red, almost brick at the edges.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows sweet red berry fruits, mostly in the raspberry and clean-laundered pomegranate categories. From the aroma, seems like this will be bright red and vigorous.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact quite as expected, with even a rhubarb element coming in among the red berries. What was unexpected was the big tannin crush right smack in the mid-palate, just as you begin the sip. It brings a powerful, vise-grip to the experience, layering chalky undertones to the red fruit. This wants to stand up to food, with enough red berry to keep it singing throughout. The tannins also make this more than willing to decant for hours or cellar for years before becoming at all tired.

In summary: Overall, this is an experience I would definitely make my way back to, with an added curiosity given more air or bottle time.
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Original tasting and review : This is Icardi Nej Pinot Nero Langhe Rosso, Italy, 2007.

In the glass: Deep magenta, hints of dark brick.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft, almost shy, dark fruit with little pinpricks of plum. From the aroma, seems like this will be deep and perhaps dark.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact soft and perfumed with plums and blackberry in the mid-palate. Some old-world-style twigs are apparent in the distant background. Acids more than tannins carry the fruit alogt and tuck it into your cheeks for a long, balanced finish. Clear tannins become apparent with the second sip, locking down your gums to your teeth - showing the real iron fist apparent within the velvet glove.

In summary: Overall, a bold and fragrant deep red wine experience I would enjoy again, recognizing its powerful demeanor that would tackle the toughest of foods.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Updated Review: ***+ $$ Chad Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA, 2009 - GOOD VALUE

2011-12-23T18:04:00.000-05:00

Find prices and retail availability for Chad pinot noir.

Opening thoughts: Chad is a label that has made its mark by securing excess, high-quality wines from various California regions, and closing them out under a different label from the originating vineyard. Thus, they are seeking, high-quality, value-priced wines

By way of background: This is Chad Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, CA, 2009, finished at 14.3% alcohol.

Original Tasting and Review, October, 2010:

In the glass: Chad Pinot Noir Sonoma is deep burgundy in the glass, quite opaque in the center.

On the nose: Poured at room temperature with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Sonoma pinot shows bold, smoky and well-oaked dark pinot fruit. Quite robust and classic.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are a full-throttle, charcoal center, thick with fruit, taut with bold alcohol, and leveraged with intense oak. Sweet tannins pull your cheeks together at the close. Finish holds as the tannins slowly let your gums peel away from your cheeks.

In summary: Overall, an intense American pinot noir experience. Rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its intensity and power. Precariously close to four stars, which may arrive with some age and mellowing. This is, after all, being tasted just one year from harvest date. Good value, which is something relatively hard to attain in a pinot noir.

Following long decant, kept cool for two days in partially-filled bottle: The nose has grown more sandy and fruity, still deep and quite intense. The palate has held quite consistent, with the tannins having released a bit of their grip.
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Updated review, over a year later, December, 2011: Remains deep burgundy with same solid smoky fruit demeanor. Well-knitted fruit and charcoal continue to define the boundaries of this solid pinot noir. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Very consistent nose and palate. Not growing old at all.

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Review: **** $$$ Radford Dale Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2009

2011-12-23T17:05:00.001-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: South Africa is becoming recognized for a number of varietals. Interestingly, chardonnay is not among the more well-known highlights from the region. Today, thanks to importer Barclay's Wine , we are sampling a Stellenbosch-based chardonnay from winery Radford Dale.

Original tasting and review : This is Radford Dale Chardonnay, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2009, finished at 13.% alcohol.

In the glass: Clear with light yellow/vanilla highlights.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, shows distinct stainless steel plus butterscotch elements, an interesting blend of opposites. From the aroma, seems like this will be sleek, full and flavorful.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact much as suggested by the aromatics, but even more intense. Brings an infinitely sleek butterscotch to the fore, sternly focused with stainless steel minerality, yet still sweet and luscious. A lemon/orange citrus surrounds this core, leading the sip along to a lengthy and crisp finish which lodges in your cheeks for almost a full minute. A touch of residual sugar seems to rest after the finish.

In summary: Overall, rates an impressive four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: More subtle on the nose, still shows some mineralized soft fruit. The palate has receded a bit as well - nicely knit, but more subtle. I more enjoyed the "grab you by the lapels" effect as this came straight out of the bottle upon opening.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Radford Dale Chardonnay.

Review: ***+ $$ Granite Ridge Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2010

2011-12-23T16:52:00.001-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Chenin blanc is an intriguing white wine. Often used as a blender, its sleek style can often work effectively as a stand-alone varietal, and often will stand up well to aging. This one from South Africa is offered by importer Barclay's Wine , which provided the review sample.

Original tasting and review : This is Granite Ridge Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2010, finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Clear with light yellow and golden cast.

On the nose: Poured cool, shows sweet, soft pineapple and citrus fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be light and fruity, perhaps with citrus-style acids.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact waves of tropical fruit on the palate, from melons and pineapple to sleek citrus. A little butterscotch sneaks in too. Palate is smooth and sleek, as is the finish, which is modest in length, finishing with a touch of sugar.

In summary: Overall, this interesting tropical fruit medley rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, meaning it definitely warrants a return engagement.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Soft and plush both in the nose and on the palate. Held up well. Reminds me in some ways of the Bing Crosby Christmas carol I'm listening to right now. Following super-long decant, five more days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Wow. Still firm and plush. It will now join for a chorus of "Auld Lang Syne" as well! Gains a star for how well it has knit together after almost a week in the air. Now rates as a good value too.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for South Africa chenin blanc.

Updated Review: ****+ $$ Cameron Hughes Lot 177 Syrah, Napa Valley, CA, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-22T19:31:00.000-05:00

Find prices and availability for Cameron Hughes syrah.

Opening Thoughts: Napa is known for a range of outstanding wines - interestingly, though, syrah is not generally one of them. This syrah hails from Cameron Hughes, a negociant working to put together high value offerings from various regions, mostly in California.

By way of background: This is Cameron Hughes Lot 177 Syrah, Napa Valley, CA, 2006, finished at 15.% alcohol, a whopping high level for Napa grapes.

Original Tasting and Review, August, 2010:

In the glass: This syrah shows as deep burgundy in the glass, opaque from about a half inch from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, CH Lot 177 offers a clean, shy nose, showing more alcohol than fruit.

On the palate: On the palate, though, deep, luscious fruit comes through with a bang - rich and sleek blackberry pairing with black plum. Inky tannins wrap this tightly-packed yet explosive bundle. The finish, backed by the heady level of alcohol, grabs your cheeks and lodges for a good, long time, continuing to spit out black purple fruit.

In summary: Overall, intense, new-world experience, loaded for bear. Rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, making this a best value.
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Updated review, almost a year and a half later, December, 2012: Still deep burgundy in the glass. The nose remains shy, but lifts some soft chocolate-covered raisins. The blockbuster palate remains intact, however, adding dark chocolate to ripe blueberry, blackberry and plum. The tannins have turned to chocolate coatings and the alcohol heat has faded, lifting this four star experience another plus, yielding - a crazy value! Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Almost entirely unchanged, with one important exception: the palate has gotten even more chocolately!

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Reviews: Champagne and Sparkling Wine Best Bets

2011-12-22T16:34:00.003-05:00

Here are a few of our more popular Champagne and sparkling wines reviewed, with hotlinks to pricing and retail availability:

When price is no object:

Nicolas Feuillatte Palmes d'Or Champagne

Pol Roger Brut

Henri Billiot Rose Champagne

Champagne Cattier Brut
Dom Perignon

In the $25-30 range:
Duval-Leroy Brut Champagne NV

In the $10-25 range:

Nivole Moscato d'Asti

Braida Moscato d'Asti
In the $10 range:

Domaine St. Michelle Extra Dry Brut NV

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Reviews: * / + $$ Edouard Labeye Syrah and Grenache-Syrah, Minervois, Languedoc, Pays D'Oc, France, 2010

2011-12-22T16:12:00.001-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: From the Pays D'Oc area of France, we will be sampling a syrah and grenache-syrah blend. Both hail from Minervois in the Languedoc region. And both are imported by the Barclay's Wine and available through the online collection, which provided the review samples.

Original tasting and review : This is Edouard Labeye Syrah, Minervois, Languedoc, Pays D'Oc, France, 2010, finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep magenta with definite purple tones.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows bold purple fruit and a lightly pleasant old-world funk. From the aroma, seems like this will be tasty and perhaps tangy.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact very sleek and mineral mid-palate fruit. Red and blue fruits are present, but it is that wide, sleek core of minerality that claims center stage. The finish is clean and fairly brief. In balance, this recommends itself with food and will almost allow even such light choices as turkey or salmon.

In summary: Overall, rates three full stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, almost gaining a plus for its distinctive character.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Now the nose is clean and fruity. On the palate, taut fruit catches up with the minerality to provide a sturdy, structured experience.
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Original tasting and review : This is Edouard Labeye Grenache-Syrah, Minervois, Languedoc, Pays D'Oc, France, 2010, finished at 13.5% alcohol. The blend is 60% grenache and 40% syrah.

In the glass: Deep reddish magenta.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft and delicate fruit with tiny hints of old-world aromatics. From the aroma, seems like this will be medium-weight and fruity.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact quite gentle and delicate, pairing aromatic red berries with richer and lightly spiced surrounding dark fruit. A nice mineral core underlies things. The finish brings just a nice touch of tannins.

In summary: Overall, rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its pleasant, delicate sensibility.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Very shy and clean, almost laundered, aromas. Gentle red fruits on the palate.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Pays D'Oc French syrah and blends.

Review: **** $$$ Roux de Beauces Champagne Grande Reserve, France, Non-Vintage

2011-12-22T14:54:00.002-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Champagne often starts with a hefty price tag. Here is a somewhat more modestly-priced offering from the Barclay's Wine online collection, which provided the review sample.

Original tasting and review : This is Roux de Beauces Champagne Grande Reserve, France, Non-Vintage, finished at 12.% alcohol.

In the glass: Almost clear with a light vanilla cast, with nice even trails of bubbles.

On the nose: Poured cool, shows light, sweet yeast with hints of lemon and mixed citrus. From the aroma, seems like this will be bright and light-hearted.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact full and almost luscious on the mid-palate, offering off-dry flavors of graham cracker biscuits. Finishes quite long, with just the lightest whisps of bright acidity poking up from time to time to whisk the flavors along. More mixed citrus elements come to bear as the finish unfolds.

In summary: Overall, this rates an impressive four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for moderately-priced Champagne.

Review: *** $$ Labeye Viognier, Minervois, Languedoc, Pay D'Oc, France, 2010

2011-12-21T22:10:00.002-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Viognier is not an extremely common varietal. The white grape is used to make aromatic wines, often blended with other whites, and has not yet built one single region that is classically associated with its development. I do not have the opportunity to review many of them, but thanks to Barclay's Wine, the importer and online collection retailer, which provided this review sample, I have had the opportunity to review two from two dramatically different regions, South Africa and France. Here is the French version of viognier.

Original tasting and review : This is Labeye Viognier, Minervois, Languedoc, Pay D'Oc, France, 2010, finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Labeye Viognier is very light gold in the glass, quite transparent.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, shows a tanginess and some sugar in the nose. From the aroma, seems like this will be sweet and bright.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact clean,sweet, fruity and balanced on the mid-palate. The finish is brief but clean, showing sweet and acidic elements.

In summary: Overall, classic and traditional style rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Sweet citrus on the nose now. The palate is smoother and richer now, displaying restrained but full fruits and solid minerality.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Languedoc Viognier.

Review: **** $$$ Radford Dale Viognier, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2009

2011-12-21T21:24:00.000-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Here we have a somewhat unusual offering: a viognier from the notable Stellenbosch region of South Africa. This viognier is part of the Radford Dale line, imported by Barclay's Wine, which provided the review sample from its online collection.

Original tasting and review : This is Radford Dale Viognier, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2009, finished at 13.% alcohol.

In the glass: This viognier is clear, pale gold in the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, shows deep and layered fruit, with slicing stainless steel minerality. There are oyster shells and light butterscotch framing the opposite ends of the aromatic spectrum. From the aroma, seems like this will be bold, sleek and layered.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact an almost effervescent initial mid-palate feel, layering light white flower fruit along with silty butterscotch and crackling stainless steel minerality. In some ways, something for everyone, but better integrated than that sounds. Light pepper and fruit carry to the finish, which lodges gently in the cheeks with subtle acids that build force for the next minute or so as the sip releases its final hints of flavor.

In summary: Overall, this multi-faceted experience rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Similar nose of fruit and minerality, but now with a distinct note of smoky oak. The light smoke winds through the palate, which is consistent with yesterday's notes. A white that holds up this well to air is likely to fare just fine in the cellar for awhile as well.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Radford Dale wines.

Review: ***+ $$$ Radford Dale Shiraz, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2009

2011-12-21T18:20:00.000-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Stellenbosch is perhaps the most widely-known wine region for classic varietals in South Africa, situated in the Western Cape province, a few miles east of Cape Town. Today we will be sampling a shiraz from the region. The shiraz comes from Radford Dale, a winemaker that forms a bedrock part of Barclay's Wine, which provided the review sample from its online collection.

Original tasting and review : This is Radford Dale Shiraz, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2009, finished at 14.% alcohol.

In the glass: Medium deep magenta.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows depth of fruit and old-world banana, if such a concept makes sense (think a light touch of pleasant old world funk tangled with a more new world subtle banana essence). Also, clear smoky notes. From the aroma, seems like this will be rich and flavorful.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact much as anticipated. Bold, frontal, deep, smoky blackberry comes on strong, quickly balanced by substantial and lifting acids. Powerful and flavorful - but the brightness brought by the acidity will let this pair with bold foods in ways that big new world shiraz will often fall short. The finish is lengthy, driven by the acid, which embeds the substantial fruit into your cheeks.

In summary: Overall, three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its balanced power and layered flavors.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: The touch of funk has faded from the nose, which still displays dark fruit and char-broiled banana. Palate remains quite consistent.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Radford Dale .

Review: *** $$ Chateau Franc-Cardinal Cotes de Bordeaux Francs, France, 2007/2008

2011-12-18T20:57:00.001-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: This will look like a puzzle. Here we have comparable wines from two adjacent years, 2007 and 2008, but look at the labels: Both say Chateau Franc-Cardinal, but the confusion begins with the region. The first says Bordeaux - Cotes de Francs, the second Francs - Cotes de Bordeaux. Hunh? Well, in fact Cotes de Bordeaux Francs is the name for wines made from three French villages at the eastern edge of Bordeaux. And indeed they formerly took the name Cotes de Francs. In addition to Francs, the other two villages are Tayac and Saint-Cibard. So, mystery solved... on to the wines!

Both of these vintages are imported by Barclay's Wine, which provided the review sample from its online collection.

Original tasting and review : This is Chateau Franc-Cardinal Bordeaux Cotes de Francs, 2007, finished at 13.% alcohol. It is a blend of 72% merlot, 24% cabernet franc and 4% malbec.

In the glass: Deep magenta/purple, almost opaque in the middle of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deep and bloody fruit, hints of old world and oak. From the aroma, seems like this will be balanced and tangy.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact sweet, balanced, chewy and flavorful, bringing some sandiness from the tannins along with crisp, taut, classic blackberry fruit. Hints of tobacco and milk chocolate come in as the sip fades.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, two full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Aromas of purple perfumed fruit. Lightly sweet fruit and tannins make up the sip now. Jaw-clenching as the finish fades, due to its solid tannin structure.

-----------------------------

Original tasting and review : This is Chateau Franc-Cardinal Francs Cotes de Bordeaux, 2008, finished at 13.5% alcohol. Like the 2007, it is a blend of 72% merlot, 24% cabernet franc and 4% malbec.

In the glass: Blood red deep magenta.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows sweet highlights on deep blackberry fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be fruity and bright.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact light and colorful flavors on the mid-palate, showing both red berries and blackberry fruit. The sip moves into your cheeks more with acids than tannins, but there is a noticeable "clench" of tannins as the finish fades.

In summary: Overall, also rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale. As with many old-world offerings, really will show its best with appropriate food pairings. Rating will likely benefit from additional decanting and/or aging time as well.

Following long decant, two full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Aromatic blackberry on the nose. All mineral now on the palate - interestingly the fruit has almost faded.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Review: **+ $$ Tandem, Ars Nova Red Blend, Navarra, Spain, 2005

2011-12-18T14:11:00.000-05:00

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Original Tasting and Review:

By way of background: Tandem, Ars Nova, is a red blend that hails from Navarra, Spain. The 2005 vintage is finished at 14% alcohol, and is a mix of tempranillo, cabernet sauvignon and merlot.

In the glass: Tandem shows as deep dusty red in the glass, opaque only in the very center.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, this Spanish red blend carries a deep, ruddy red currant nose, with a powerful alcohol lift.

On the palate: The first elements on the palate are a tangy red currant, supported by light, dusty tannins. The finish runs up your cheeks with bright acidic sparks.

In summary: Overall, a bright red experience, with hints of complexity and depth. Rates two stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a definite plus for potential with aging or decant. With its brightness, it really seems to want to cut through a tomato-sauce-based meal.

Following long decant, half-day in partially-opened bottle: Now the nose carries dusty tones too. The acidity has settled nicely, knitting with the red berries and light tannins.
--------------------------

Updated review, a year and a half later, December, 2011: Very consistent color and aromas. A light mineral streak accompanies the red currants on the palate. Remains acid-bright and cheery.

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Review: ***+ $$$$ Radford Dale Gravity Red Blend, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2008

2011-12-16T17:39:00.000-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Radford Dale produces a series of medium- to higher-end varietals from various regions in South Africa. The line is featured prominently as part of the Barclay's Wine online collection, which provided this review sample. Here we have "Gravity", a classic, shiraz-based red varietal blend from the Stellenbosch region.

Original tasting and review : This is Radford Dale Gravity Red Blend, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2008, finished at 14.5% alcohol. It is a blend of 55% shiraz, 25% merlot and 20% cabernet sauvignon.

In the glass: Deep magenta, opaque about three-quarters inch in from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows deep, invigorating, complex nose of earth, smoked, charred black fruit, essence of smoke and the faintest touch of the region's classic "essential oil of banana". From the aroma, seems like this will be complex and contemplative.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact a medium-weight, brooding, bold and still-bright mid-palate attack of smoky blackberries and perky acids, surrounded by an ever-present and delightful soft banana-based essential oil. The finish is exceptionally clean and crisp, but intriguingly long and full of flavor.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a big plus for complexity, depth and varietal character. Likely to hold its own and even improve with age.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: More subtle nose, but composed of the same aromatic elements as before. Palate holding up exceptionally well, with all of the bright and savory flavor components still in play.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Review: ***+ $ Santa Rita Reserva Malbec, Valle de Colchagua, Chile, 2009 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-16T17:09:00.003-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: The designations "reserve" or "reserva" have little authoritative meanings in wine. If a "reserve" bottling is available alongside a bottling from the same vintner, grape and year that is not label "reserve", then indeed it is likely a more limited selection of grapes. But when a "reserva", like this one, is unaccompanied by a non-reserve bottling, and is value-priced, you can be pretty sure it is the baseline varietal wine for that winery.

Original tasting and review : This is Santa Rita Reserva Malbec, Valle de Colchagua, Chile, 2009, finished at 13.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Santa Rita Reserva Malbec is dark maroon, opaque from about a half inch in from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows purple-y and oily, well-oaked fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be bold yet tangy on the palate.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact purple and rosy aromatic fruit, sitting clean and fresh in your mid-palate, yielding almost lollipop secondary flavors of cherry. It rides your cheeks to a perky finish.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for the variegated flavors. Best value, given the attractive price point.

Following long decant, three full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Redder on the nose, but still wet, oily and youthful. Better integration of the friendly red berries on the palate now. Consistent rating.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Santa Rita Reserva Malbec.

Review: *** $ Lujan de Cuyo's Kaiken Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, 2009 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-16T16:58:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Malbec and Mendoza, Argentina, always go together well. In the past, I sampled a Kaiken Ultra Malbec and liked it a great deal. Today, we are trying the value-priced malbec from this same producer.

Original tasting and review : This is Lujan de Cuyo's Kaiken Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina, 2009, finished at 14.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Kaiken Malbec shows as black blood red, opaque from about a quarter inch from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft, vigorous, well-oaked fruit with purple tones. From the aroma, seems like this will be deep, flashy and bold.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact bright blackberry, soaring into your cheeks with the high alcohol, notable tannins and distinct acids. Lodges there for a long finish that drips purple fruit for awhile. Seems like a long decant might serve this well.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, making this a best value at its low price point.

Following long decant, three full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Consistent nose, now softer. Consistent palate too - held up nicely to air without breaking apart.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Kaiken Malbec.

Review: *** $$$ Radford Dale Black Rock Red Blend, Swartland, South Africa, 2009

2011-12-16T16:40:00.000-05:00

By way of background, opening thoughts: Radford Dale produces a series of medium- to higher-end varietals from various regions in South Africa. The line is featured prominently as part of the Barclay's Wine online collection, which provided this review sample. Here we have a shiraz-based blend from the Swartland region, called "Black Rock".

Original tasting and review : This is Radford Dale Black Rock Red Blend, Swartland, South Africa, 2009, finished at 14.5% alcohol. This is a blend of 71% shiraz, 13% carignan (carignane), 12% grenache, 3% mourvedre and 1% viognier.

In the glass: Deep magenta with a purplish rim, opaque about a half inch from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured at room temperature with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows funky deep fruit with pleasant old socks elements and undergirding deep powerful, smoky fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be bold and distinctive. I believe the funk will dissipate with a bit more air.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact deeply smoked fruit with subtle, classic, regional overtones of char-broiled bananas. Full-bodied, but acids wash across after about five seconds and give the sip a buoyant bright feel as it moves towards a finish. You start by thinking "smoky dark blackberries" and end by thinking "bright red currants".

In summary: Overall, its flavorful, layered distinctiveness brings it a solid three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Soft smoky fruit on the nose, hardly any funk left. The full body, smoke, acids and red berries knit nicely together now, adding place and presence.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Review: ***** $$ Ramian Estate Parlay The Bookmaker Red Wine, California, 2009 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-15T22:01:00.003-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Often wine blends can add up to more than the individual wine varietals may suggest. Here we have a blend of grapes combines with a blend of California vineyard areas and a blend of oak barrel cooperages - a real blender's blend. Let's see what this combo brings to the palate...

Original tasting and review : This is Ramian Estate Parlay The Bookmaker Red Wine, California, 2009, finished at 14.5% alcohol. It is built by winemaker Brian Graham from 72% cabernet sauvignon from the Oak Knoll district of Napa Valley. To that is added syrah, petite sirah, petit verdot and additional cabernet sauvignon from the El Dorado area. The blend has been aged 16 months in four types of oak barrels.

In the glass: Deep magenta, opaque about three-quarters inch in from the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured at room temperature with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows creamy purple aromas with some black cassis fruit and an interesting sandy vegetable tone. Though there is no merlot in the blend, somehow a Napa merlot element comes through too. From the aroma, seems like this will be deep yet brightly flavorful.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact boldly deep and flavorful, bringing gobs of well-tamed but bountiful oaked fruit to the mid-palate, floating along on soft buoys of gentle tannins that feel like they are slowly and subtly staining your teeth as the wine slowly creeps to a finish. Deep black cherry, red currant and lush blackberry glide along. Implied sweetness comes from the big flavors and ample alcohol.

In summary: Overall, rates four stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for its gargantuan flavor. Best value.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Sweeter, red fruit tones on the nose now. The palate knits even together even more impressively now, yielding a red berry experience with layers upon layers of enjoyable complexity. Just touches five stars - a stunning feat at this price point. "Get between me and this bottle of wine at your own risk!"

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation. Review sample provided by the winery's agent.

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Review: **** $$$$$ von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley, California, 2006

2011-12-14T21:06:00.000-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Corks and wines have had a love/hate relationship over the centuries. A natural and effective closing mechanism, corks also come with a wily and troublesome habit called "cork taint", which is a residue of TCA (2,4,6-trichloroanisole) that will grow in impact as the wine ages. By some studies, as many as 7% of commercial wines may be impacted by the taint. Descriptions of the smell vary, the more colorful veering towards characterization like "old cardboard", "wet dog hair" and the like. I don't have a handy description. Having been around enough wines, I know it when I sniff it now, and it isn't particularly pleasant. It also strips a wine of its underlying character. There are ways to strip the taint from wines, and yet the resulting wine will lose some of its original character in the process.

All this is prelude to saying that my first bottle of this varietal was so infected, even though lightly so. When I opened a second bottle, the change was dramatic. If you think you are being impacted by a corked bottle, go with your gut - you probably are. Seek a replacement if possible.

On to the wine... von Strasser Winery of Diamond Mountain in Napa seeks to build Bordeaux-style varietals from the Napa region. Generally speaking, that will imply a lighter-alcohol, higher acid and more food-friendly wine than you may otherwise expect. It will likely be less a contemplative, pre-dinner, sipping wine, and more likely one you will likely enjoy most with your roast.

Original tasting and review : This is von Strasser Cabernet Sauvignon, Diamond Mountain District, Napa Valley, California, 2006, finished at 13.5% alcohol, which is quite shy by Napa cabernet sauvignon standards and consistent with the Bordeaux-styling.

In the glass: Dark blood red magenta.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft, subtle fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be gentle and lithe.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact bold purple deep fruit, with a clean laundry overtone and solid surrounding tannins. It does paint your teeth and gums with intensity, but shows a clear, clean mineral streak right along the spine. Finish brings red berry flavors along for a good long time.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a big plus for its combination of power and delicacy.

Following decant of approximately one hour, satisfying deep tannins lifted up and held the deep blueberry and blackberry flavors aloft, lifting this to a full four stars. I wholeheartedly recommend a decant, and serving this with food, which will accent its solid acids and minerality. Following longer decant, two full days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Blood red fruit on the nose. Vibrant and well-knitted red fruits. Finish turns lightly sweet and fills your teeth and cheeks with gentle tannins. Very nice with this extra-long air time.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Review: **** $$ Kaiken Ultra Malbec, 2005, Mendoza, Argentina - BEST VALUE

2011-12-13T19:45:00.000-05:00

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Background:
This Argentina malbec is brought to market by the Montes S.A. folks, same ones who built the Chile-based Montes Alpha Syrah, which I tried and liked a great deal.

Original review, January, 2008:

In the glass, the Kaiken Ultra Malbec is medium dark red, moving to ruby/purple at the edges.

Aromas are meaty and oaky, more reminiscent of a Napa cabernet than an Argentinian malbec. Interesting.

On the palate, the first sensation is of furry, supple, deep fruit in the mid-palate, complete with lightly charred black cherries. Nice, lingering finish brought along by the tannins with a complete absence of sharp acids. Very drinkable now. Capable of age too. I'd stay with it for an evening. Four stars out of five. Interesting - that's slightly higher than I rated the Montes Alpha Syrah, another excellent value wine.

Robert Parker gave the 2006 version of the Kaiken Ultra Malbec 91 points, but I don't see that he rated the 2005. I'm not generally a huge fan of Wine Enthusiast ratings, nonetheless, they gave this 91 points, saying, "Since coming onto the scene with the 2002 vintage, this Chilean-run venture (Montes S.A.) has hit the right notes time after time. The 2005 Ultra is exactly as we’ve come to expect: It’s saturated, dark, meaty and ripe, with huge blackberry flavors and lavish creamy oak. Very modern, but done in the right way."
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Updated review, almost four years later, December, 2011: Color is consistent, with a hint of brick showing at the edge. Funky and deep fruit on the nose, a hint of broccoli sneaking in. Stunning sweet, deeply fruited, old world perfumed palate, fully ready to drink at this point. The slight vegetative element in the nose is gone on the palate, creating a clean, balanced, intense sip. This really held up to the six years since vintage date.

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Review: ***+ $ Henry Lagarde Syrah Reserve, Mendoza, Argentina, 2007 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-11T21:10:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: The Mendoza region of Argentina is known for its malbec. Certainly, syrah is a lesser-recognized varietal from the region. But in our quest for values from around the world, we will review this value-priced Mendoza syrah today.

Original tasting and review : This is Henry Lagarde Syrah Reserve, Mendoza, Argentina, 2007, finished at 14.2% alcohol. The Lagarde Winery was founded over a century ago, in 1897.

In the glass: Lagarde Syrah shows a deep, bloody magenta, opaque from about a half inch in from the edge of the glass, suggesting deep, bold flavors.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows bold, balanced and fresh deep red berry fruit. From the aroma, seems like this will be balanced and earthy.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact soft, silky, ripe blackberry fruit, with sleek acids that lighten the tone. Tannins come in on the close and provide a solid, clenching feel, even after four years from vintage date.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, for its deep fruitiness, with a plus for layered pleasures. Best value in a modestly-priced Argentinian syrah.

Following long decant, two days kept cool in partially filled bottle: Fruit still bold on the nose, with an intriguing fresh laundry element. Red berries and fun acids on the palate. Clean, fresh finish.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Rating: **** $$ Domaine Sainte Leocadie, Fernand Averoux, 2006, Minervois, France - BEST VALUE

2011-12-09T17:24:00.000-05:00

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Original Review, January, 2008:

This Domaine Sainte Leocadie is from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of France, an appelation called Minervois.

In the glass, it is dark, mahogany red. It has a sweet, candied aroma, akin to an intense beaujolais, with an ashen overtone.

On the palate, it bursts forth in the front of your mouth, with impressive, intense, black fruit berry flavors, supported by a clean, firm acid finish and a hint of trailing tannin. I'd try it again. Three stars out of five.

Updated review, almost four years later, December, 2011: Consistent color. Nose is definite old world, showing cellar, funk and old world fruit. Powerful and balanced fruit attack the mid-palate, bringing juicy, lavender-y, ripe blackberry, with surrounding acids that perk up the experience. Awesome, aromatic balance. Now three stars with a plus for aromas and balance. Good value.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: Nose now shows the lavender fruit and blackberry. Palate remains bright, rich, layered and perfumed. This just barely touches four stars now (wonderful flavors, missing some intensity however). It becomes a best value.

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Review: **** $$$ Cameron Hughes Lot 303 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, Californima, 2009

2011-12-09T15:34:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Negociant Cameron Hughes plucked this Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon from several high-end but unnamed vineyards in the region. It sells at the higher end price range for Cameron Hughes wines, but still at an affordable level.

Original tasting and review : This is Cameron Hughes Lot 303 Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, Californima, 2009, finished at 14.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Deep ruddy magenta, opaque from within about a half inch of the edge of the glass.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows classic, subtle and structured Napa cabernet sauvignon, with fruit, oak and depth. From the aroma, seems like this will be serious, layered an perhaps brooding.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact solid and bright fruit on the mid-palate, think ripe blackberry, with surrounding tannins and oak. A clean, yet lengthy, finish then follows, with clear evidence that time will not harm this solid offering.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for balance.

Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: The nose is entirely consistent, classic and subtle. Intensifying flavors of deep blueberry with hints of menthol and oak step this offering up enough to just touch four stars with the long decant time.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

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Review: ***+ $ Pedro Romero Amontillado Medium Sherry, Spain, non-vintage - BEST VALUE

2011-12-04T20:48:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Amontillado sherries are in between the dry, light fino's and the more intense, rich oloroso's. All Amontillado's are fortified after fermentation. Within the category, this one we are sampling today is in the medium category, which means it is lightly sweetened.

Original tasting and review : This is Pedro Romero Amontillado Medium Sherry, Spain, non-vintage, finished via fortification to 17.5% alcohol.

In the glass: Shows a light brown color, think deep Scotch whiskey.

On the nose: Poured cool and swirled vigorously, shows mashed walnuts and sweet carmel. From the aroma, seems like this will be thick, rich and sweet.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact a sweet nutty middle, lightly infused with the oxidized elements common to sherry. Brings in notes of oranges and tobacco, sifting to a long and surprisingly clean finish.

In summary: Overall, rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, with a plus for the distinct nutty elements. Best value, as are many of the classic Spanish sherries.

(c) Copyright 2011 Spirit of Wine, all rights reserved. If you are a winery, distributor or marketing agent and you would like to see your (or your client's) wine featured at Spirit of Wine, here are two options: 1) Wait, pray and hope - we may find you someday; 2) Submit a wine for review. No charge. Particulars are here. If you are reading this full posting on any site other than Spirit of Wine, chances are it is a copyright violation.

Check out today's pricing and retail availability for Pedro Romero Amontillado Sherry.

Review: *** $ Bodegas Lan Crianza, Rioja, Spain, 2006 - BEST VALUE

2011-12-04T20:34:00.001-05:00

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By way of background, opening thoughts: Crianza wines from Spain have spent a full year in oak barrels. Today we are sampling a value-priced yet well-regarded crianza from the Rioja region.

Original tasting and review : This is Bodegas Lan Crianza, Rioja, Spain, 2006, finished at 13.5% alcohol, made from 100% tempranillo. We're tasting it just about at the midpoint of its ideal drinking window from three to five years from vintage date.

In the glass: LAN Crianza shows as deep, dark ruddy red in the glass, opaque from about an inch from the edge.

On the nose: Poured cool with a brief decant and swirled vigorously, shows soft red fruit and oak. From the aroma, seems like this will be simple, easy and fruity.

On the palate: The primary elements on the palate are in fact soft, round, balanced fruit on the mid-palate. Shows lush, softened red berry, followed by tannins and acids which have spent their five years working to surround the fruit with an easy, gentle frame. Finish is of modest length and impressively clean.

In summary: Overall, balanced sip rates three stars on the five-star Spirit of Wine scale, making it a best value at its bargain price point. Following long decant, full day kept cool in partially filled bottle: A bit of pleasant old world funk coming across now on the nose. The soft, medium body palate is now nicely poised between old and new world.

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